RIONE SANITA'

Rebirth. There is no more appropiate word to describe what is happening to the Sanitá district, the area between Capodimonte and the back of the Archeological Museum.

In the past, this part of the city was very dangerous and very poor. Famous to be the set of many old movies and to be the birth place of the most popular Neapolitan comedian, actor and poet of all time ‘Totó’, where today you can visit his old home.

Situated in the Stella-San Carlo quarter, Sanitá as we see it today was developed in the 16th century on land north of Napoli outside the walls of the city.

Originally, Sanita was a wooded area with springs of pure water (probably from this it took the name Sanitá, health) and it started off as a greek-roman burial area and this is where you can find the greek and early christian catacombs of San Gennaro and San Gaudioso and also the Fontanelle Cemetery, where victims of the plague were buried in 1656. This might be another theory about the origin of the name. Not only the health of the living but also of the dead. This is explained by the deep connection between Neapolitans and the after life. The Fontanelle cemetery is a typical example of this where people used to come to the cemetery and ‘adopt’ a skull or a skeleton in order to look after it and ask for a ‘miracle’. You can read more about the cemetery here.

Centuries after centuries, Sanitá became very poor and dangerous, even though royalty and aristocratic families built their palaces in the area and many religious orders settled there too. This is the reason why Sanitá has the highest number of churches in Napoli.

Only in recent years have things started to change for the better in Sanitá. Inhabitants started to tire of the increasing crime rate and decided to try and improve the area themselves. This part of Napoli, completely abandoned by institutions and politicians for so many years, is improving thanks to the courage and industry of many young Neapolitans, who instead of move abroad (like many) decided to work hard and make the area a better place to live and more pleasant for tourists to visit and see all the amazing things this zone has to offer.

Fontanelle Cemetery.

Lots of things to see in Sanitá then. First of all the Fontanelle Cemetery, which is planned to reopen soon after a restyling of the entrance by the world renowned Italian architect Lorenzo Piano.

As I have already mentioned, the key of this rebirth is the younger generation which made possible the restoration and the reopening of the San Gennaro and San Gaudioso catacombs. It is called the Cooperative of the Paranza. To know more about the catacombs and this project visit their official website here: Catacombs of Naples.

This Cooperative is also responsable for the restoration of Sant' Aspreno ai Crociferi church, where the sculptor Jago based his studio and his permanent exhibition of sculptures. His art is deeply inspired by the classical sculpture of the greatest Italian sculptors such as Michelangelo. Jago is so deeply inspired by this area and and Napoli which is visible in his works of art, in particular the Veiled son, a clear reference to the Veiled Christ in the Sansevero chapel. Jago is also working on a very ambitious project for Sanitá: making a giant David statue like Michelangelo’s statue in Florence, but in the guise of a woman.

Fontanelle Cemetery. 

The model of Jago's statue in Sant' Aspreno ai Crociferi church.

You can visit the the Jago Museum and the catacombs with the same ticket and it is valid for one year.

There is also the restoration of the abandoned church of Santa Maria Maddalena ai Cristallini (also known as Chiesa dei Cristallini). The church reopened as an art gallery after being closed for 40 years. Locals contributed in creating their own works of art inspired by the life and people of the area. It is filled with portraits of the same residents you can see on the streets of Sanitá, who have lived here with their families all their lives.

A little hidden gem of Sanitá is the Palazzo dello Spagnolo, in via dei Vergini. The Palace was built in 1738 for an aristocratic family and is an exquisite example of Neapolitan Rococo style. Today the palace is divided into apartments although it is open to the public for guided tours.

Palazzo dello Spgnolo.

Details of the Palazzo dello Spagnolo.

Details of the Palazzo dello Spagnolo.

Details of the Palazzo dello Spagnolo.

The younger generation as well as students moving in and immigrant communities settling there as well as tourists visiting is creating a new dynamism in Sanitá then. Thanks to them many abandoned churches or convents have now been converted into bed and breakfasts and hotels in order to attract tourists. This definitely seems to be working! A big advantage of Sanitá is that is a cheaper area to stay in although at the same time it is very central. This has led to many a new opening of pizzerias and typical Neapolitan food restaurants. One pizzeria even has a Michelin star ‘Michelin da Concettina ai Tre Santi’. Enjoy!.

Life in Sanitá. 

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PRESEPE NAPOLETANO

The Christmas tree in many parts of the world is the symbol of Christmas. Not in Napoli. Here we have a very old and deep tradition: The Presepe, the Nativity.

There’s no Neapolitan house that doesn’t have their own version of the Presepe: small or large, simple or elaborate, modern or classical. In fact, one of my oldest memories as a child was of my grumpy uncle who turned into a happy child when he showed you his presepe, ‘his masterpiece’, which he displayed the whole year round in the living room.

Some people go mad decorating their homes and lawns with Christmas lights and decorations. Neapolitans go crazy with the nativity.

We need to go back in history to really understand the deep connection between this tradition and the Neapolitans. The 17th century is the golden age of the Presepe, however the origins date back far longer, as they were first documented in the 11th century.

The first known church to display a Presepe was in the 15th century when San Domenico Maggiore church displayed the Nativity scene inside a cave made with real stones rumoured to have been brought from Palestine. Since then until now every church in Naples displays its own Presepe.

The figures of the Neapolitan Presepe include the traditional statues of the Holy Family and also of the ‘Pastori’, which are made up of the shepherds, as well as lots of characters found on the old streets of Naples such as fishermen, merchants, bakers and ordinary men, women and children. Eventually these Presepe became status symbols where aristocrats and rich merchants began to commission pastori with their own features to display in their extravagant nativity scenes and a whole industry sprung up to meet this growing demand. Many workshops started to specialise in making these statues and you can still find them in the old town on the street known as San Gregorio Armeno. Even King Charles III of Bourbon was a fan who actively encouraged the practice. The 17th century was when the technique of making the statues was perfected. The faces were made with terracotta, which could give them a realistic range of facial expressions, then glass eyes were added. The bodies were constructed of bound string, richly dressed in expensive fabrics.

Today in the shops on San Gregorio Armeno you will find statues of figures from contemporary life such as footballers which include of course Maradona, the royal family, celebrities from the world of music and film and even pizzaiolo’s (pizza makers). Here you can also purchase the scenes to place them in which often resemble Neapolitan alleyways. If you go in the month of December expect to encounter large crowds. Be warned, it gets very busy!.

Nowadays, some of the most magnificent Presepe in Napoli are the ones exhibited inside the Museum of San Martino and at the Royal Palace on Piazza Plebiscito. The most spectacular one in San Martino is known as Presepe Cuciniello named after the nobleman who commissioned it in 1879 and it still sits in its original position. This Presepe is a unique example of the technology of its day. It sits inside a cave behind huge glass windows and a machine recreates the different stages of the day, from sunrise to dusk and throughout the night-time, all in a matter of minutes. The Presepe includes all manner of figures and every type of animals, as well as exquisitely crafted fruits and vegetables and meats and fish.

See more in the section I wrote about San Martino here.

Presepe Cuciniello, dated 1879 in San Martino.

Part of the collection of the Presepe section of the museum in San Martino.

Part of the collection of the Presepe section of the museum in San Martino.

The Presepe on display at the Royal Palace, belongs to the Banco di Napoli and it is a collection of several Neapolitan artists, like Giuseppe Sanmartino (sculptor of the breathtaking Cristo Velato in the Sansevero Chapel). It is a 17th century Neapolitan scene in which all the figures wear oriental and elegant clothes and which even includes Vesuvius in the background.

If you want to make your own Presepe, these are some of the characters of the tradition which you must be include in your scene. Benino (or Benito) is the young sleeping shepherd, which represents the awareness of the birth of Jesus. The vintner, to represent the wine, the blood of Jesus. The fisherman, always a reference to the Gospel. I due compari, two men at the tavern playing with cards, who represent Carnival and death. Last but not least i Re Magi, the three kings, which according to tradition, arrived in Jerusalem with gifts for the baby Jesus. For those fanatical about Presepe, it is very common to place three small kings in the background at the start of the festive period as they are coming from far away and then every few days they are replaced with bigger and bigger statues until January 5th when they finally arrive at the stable to visit baby Jesus, whose statue is only put in the scene at midnight on Christmas Eve.

Benino (or Benito), the sleeping shepherd.

The Three Kings.

Details of the precious clothes of some pastori.

As I previously mentioned, you can visit the San Martino museum and the Royal Palace Presepe, but the best way to experience the real Presepe Napoletano is to visit ‘Christmas Alley’ San Gregorio Armeno. This is one of the alleys in the old town, famous for all its shops where they sell and make all the statues of the presepe. You can find here any type of statues, from the cheapest (only few euros), to the most expensive (thousands of euros). You can also find elaborate pieces such as waterfalls with real water, mills, ovens, and all you can put in a nativity scene.

The famous Christmas alley, San Gregorio Armeno.

The amazing shops in San Gregorio Armeno.

You don’t need to be religious to appreciate The Neapolitan Presepe. When you walk around San Gregorio Armeno and all the other Presepe in Napoli, I’m sure you will be amazed by this fascinating world of tradition and modernity and by the the skills and the dedication of the artists who have created these wonderful things, generation after generation. These shops are open all year round and every January these presepe makers start to plan and work on the new presepe for the next Christmas.

Details of the making of a pastore.

Artist hands.

One of the oldest workshops in San Gregorio Armeno.

Statues of varying sizes.

Statues.

Sacro e profano. Sacred and profane.

You can make your own presepe with some barn/villages.

Barns like a traditional Neapolitan house.

Different types of pastori.

Vegetables & fruits. All hand made and painted.

The smallest Presepe inside a walnut.

The incredible expressivity of the pastori in the San Lorenzo church.

Details of the pastori in the San Lorenzo church.

The Underground City

Napoli is definitely a city with many wonders and thousands of secrets.  Every century left an important mark on the city making it how we see it today.  Napoli is not just a unique city on its surface, but also in its depths.  Napoli was founded by the Greeks around 500BC. and by physically going down under the streets of Napoli you can discover remnants of the original Greek city. This area is called decumani (decumans), from the old term indicating the main streets that ran through the city (today via Tribunali, via Constantinopoli and via Benedetto Croce).  You can still visit the Greek tunnels underground where the population used to hide during the bombing of WWII. 

There are different sites where you can book your excursion under the city offering different tours (available in other languages as well). 

One of the most famous is the Napoli Sotterranea, near via dei Tribunali, one of the busiest streets of the old part.  The guide will take you down to the very depths under the centro storico (old town). 

The entrance of Napoli Sotterranea in via dei Tribunali.

The steps down.

There are 136 steps down to the tunnels. They are 40 metres below ground. Warning: it is always advisable to bring a jumper as the temperature drops dramatically (or otherwise it can also be a nice refreshment from the heat). One of the best parts to see is the Greek-Roman Aqueduct, big cisterns of water which used to supply the city, and the the remains of the Roman theatre, accessible through a typical Neapolitan house.  During WWII, these tunnels were used by the Neapolitans as shelter from the aerial bombing that was destroying and damaging the city.  Many objects of daily life were found, like children's toys, clothes and books.  There is even a Hypogeum Garden,  a scientific project dedicated to the power of the Earth. The garden, is in fact a great attraction not only for tourists but also for scientists and botanists.  Here there is a variety of vegetable plants, which were able to grow despite the absence of natural light.

Overall, this tour is very interesting and I really suggest to do it if you have the time. Although, i must warn you if you are claustrophobic!  During the visit you will be able to walk through very narrow tunnels carrying only a candle!  In case you don't feel comfortable to continue, the guide can take you back to a certain level where you can wait for the rest of the group to come back.  To know more about this excursion, visit the official website of Napoli Sotterranea or go to the bottom of the post for tickets and timetables.

The Pozzari were men who used to carry vases to supply the city with water.

Cisterns of water.

The Hypogeum Garden.

The only way to get around the tunnels.

Some of the caves were used as shelter from the bombing during WWII.

The narrow underground tunnels.

Not far from the Napoli Sotterranea in piazza San Gaetano, there is the San Lorenzo Maggiore church, here you can have a guided tour of the archeological site under the structure of the church. The excursion starts at almost 10 metres under the city from the medieval remains of the church, continuing to the remains of the Greek and Roman city where there are still the visible ruins of the market, a temple, shops, houses, marvellous mosaics and marble architectural remains.  Archeologists have outlined a map of the ancient city where the church now is.  More info about the excursions on San Lorenzo Maggiore or visit the official website or go to the bottom of the post. 

Greek and Roman streets of the ancient city under the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore.

Shops of the ancient underground city.

Temples and private habitations under the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore.

Another interesting tour under Napoli is the Bourbon Tunnel.  In 2007, a group of geologists discovered a tunnel long about 84 meters of carafa caves just under Piazza Plebiscito.  The construction of the tunnel started in 1853 and finished in 1855 for king Ferdinand II of Bourbon.  The underground tunnel linked the Royal Palace to the sea, its purpose was as a secret tunnel to move the royal troops. The tunnel was divided in two sections, the Royal Gallery and the Road Regia, one for carriages and the other one for all the pedestrians.

In the years of WWII, the Bourbon tunnel was also used as an air raid shelter.  The geologists found a large amount of personal items and objects, cars, motorbikes and vehicles, even statues and funeral monuments.

There is also a tour around the Catacombs of Napoli where you will find the the final resting place of thousands of Neapolitan skeletons from centuries past .  There are different tours, one of the most popular is to visit the San Gennaro catacombs.  San Gennaro is the saint protector of the city, and here is where his remains where originally found.  Today his remains are in the Cathedral (Duomo). The area of the catacombs is quite spacious and it is divided in two levels: covered in tuff (tufo, typical Neapolitan stone that covers most of the underground tunnels) there is the lower catacombs, with a baptismal basin, and an upper level were the tomb of San Gennaro was.  Probably originally these spaces were used as a sepulchre of an aristocratic family and then used by the christian community around the 2nd century A.D.  Later additions were made in order to keep the remains of Sant Agrippino, the first patron of Napoli, in the 4th Century A.D.  Another interesting place to visit is the Bishops Crypt and the underground cathedral. Miglio Sacro is in the area of Sanitá, which links all the churches to the catacombs. 

All these different tours of underground Napoli are very interesting journeys through the history of the city.  I really suggest to try and do at least one of these tours, if you can, first because it's a unique experience ( in no other city it is possible to see, even in Rome) and also because it is a different way to understand what's below the surface and to discover the centuries of history buried under Napoli. 

Official website: Napoli Sotterranea
Piazza San Gaetano 68 Napoli
Tel.: 0039 081 296944 / 0039 081 0190933
Mobile: 0039 392 1733828 / 0039 334 3662841
Email: info@napolisotterranea.org

Timetable excursions: in English 10,00-12,00 / 14,00-16,00 / 18,00

Also tours in other languages (french, german, spanish). 

Duration of the tour: about 2 hours.

You can book online on the official website or on the official app.

Official website: San Lorenzo Maggiore - La Neapolis Sotterrata   

Piazza San Gaetano 316 Napoli

Tel.: 0039 081 211 0860 / Whatsapp 0039 389 1091 865

Email: visite.sanlorenzo@libero.it

Timetable tours:  9.30 - 17.30  (everyday) Timetable excursions: in English 11,00 / 13,15 / 15,15 / 17,00

Tickets: € 9 /  € 7 with Artecard, for teachers, university students and Over 65 /  € 6 Under 18 / € 4 School groups / Free under 6.

Official website: Bourbon Tunnel - il Tunnel Borbonico. 

Tel.: 0039 366 248 4151 / 0039 081 764 5808

 Email: mail@galleriaborbonica.com

The tour to the tunnel has three different entrances and for each entrance there is a different tour with different fees.  Some tours are not suitable for children. 

Official website: Catacombs of Napoli - Catacombe di Napoli. 

Via Capodimonte, 13  (Entrance near the Basilica del Buon Consiglio).

Tel.: 0039 081 744 37 14
Email: info@catacombedinapoli.it

Napoli - THE RENAISSANCE

If you have been in Napoli these past months, you must have seen an explosion of blue & white banners, flags and pictures of Maradona around the city. Probably you must have thought ‘what’s going on here?’. It’s a very simple explanation. Napoli football club won the serie A, which is the the main football championship in Italy.

It is very hard for me to explain what this victory means for the city.

Because is NOT just a game, but it is much much more. A lot more.

Napoli is feeling like it’s a city on the up. The successful football season gave the city a new vibrant, self confident feeling. Yes, because you might think ‘It’s just a game’. Probably true, but not in Napoli. We live everything to the extreme! Including football.

We need to go back a few years to fully understand why football is so important to the citizens of Naples.

Precisely 33 years ago there was a man called Maradona. You can love him or hate him, surely as a human being he can be criticised, but as a football player (except for the English) he was a God, at least in Napoli.

I am old enough to remember what he did for the city. When he arrived in 1984 the city was in a sorry state of decline and the football team were a real disaster. But he gave Neapolitans hope. It was like David against Goliath, the hopeless Neapolitan team of the south against the big boy rich teams of the north, such as Juventus, Inter & AC Milan. No one believed in us, but Maradona took Naples to two league championships and to UEFA cup glory.

Maradona was the catalyst that initiated Naples steady ascent from the dark days of urban decay and crime to a reawakening of what Naples had to offer the world. Beauty, passion, life and vitality. Since the pandemic this renaissance has accelerated. Improvements in infrastructure and ambitious civic projects are finally unlocking the potential of the city. Today it is a safer more business friendly city. Tourism as well is growing rapidly. Once, not so long ago, tourists would only fly into Naples to use it only as a gateway to Sorrento and the Amalfi coast. But now all that is changing. People from all over the world are finally discovering what an incredible city Napoli is and it is becoming a destination city like Rome, Florence or Venice.

Going back to the football, that is why it is so important. Because it has given the city a new optimistic and joyful vibe. Even the elderly ladies at the market were talking about it like they were professional managers! Around March this year, despite the famous superstitious nature of the Neapolitan people, we started to decorate the streets with blue and white flags even before it was certain that Napoli would win the championship!. It didn't really matter, Neapolitans were happy to be doing so well anyway. We were determined to enjoy the moment we had been waiting 33 years for.

Believe me, in all my life I’ve never seen my city so beautiful and joyful, and studying art I feel proud that tourists are discovering and loving Napoli with its amazing architecture, its incredible treasures, its beautiful landmarks and traditions, and of course food.

It is safe to quote Goethe ‘See Napoli and then die’ (‘Vedi Napoli e poi muori’) because there’s no other place like it.

From the Opera House San Carlo ……

to Piazza Dante….

Banners and flags all over the monuments and buildings.

From the pizza…..

to chocolates…..

to pasta. Everything is merchandising!

I asked my artist husband to make banner ……he made a masterpiece!

In loving memory to my dad (big Napoli fan), his favourite flag!

Old kings……

New kings…..

The Girl From Naples Is Back!

Back on the road again!

Hi there! Here I am again! I have just realised that my last blog was dated 2018! .

We all know very well, the last two/three years have been very difficult. We had a global pandemic that has changed not only our lives but also our way of travelling, so keeping up with all the restrictions and rules have made writing a travel blog very challenging, almost impossible and quite frankly, very depressing. So I am sorry for this long absence. I will try to write more often because there is still so much more to know about my wonderful city and region.

I have to say I really do miss travelling. Properly travelling, discovering new places, new countries, new cultures. It’s one of the things I have been missed the most. I have been travelling back and fourth between England and Italy for family reasons and had few outings in Italy without going too far. But I so miss that excited spirit that comes with a new adventure! As I said before our way of travelling has changed and so did we. A lot of people were (and still are) very scared to go to a foreign country, without knowing if they have to quarantine, having tests, etc. Let’s face it. It also has been very expensive and quite stressful to travel. Book the right test for all the family, get the green pass, quarantine in a hotel, ‘no you might not need to quarantine’, etc. How many times did you hear all this?

My very first holiday after two years, one of my favourite destinations: the island of Ischia (August 2021).

Fear also changed everything. I went to Ischia last August and even though it’s still my favourite, it was strangely too quiet, not as buzzy as it used to be. Most of the tourists were italians or local.

Thankfully, the situation is getting better everywhere. Now when you come to Italy, you don’t need to quarantine or show a negative test anymore. Since April 1st, all the travel restrictions have stopped. Hooray!

Even wearing masks indoors and having to show your green pass (the QR code showing you had two jabs and a booster) when travelling or indoors restaurants and bars has stopped.

If you test positive, you still need to quarantine until you have a negative result and must wear a mask.

Hopefully, even those few restrictions will drop by the end of April/beginning of May, so we can all enjoy the summer, the very first summer without stress!

I can’t wait to write more about my region. This summer, to celebrate the end of the pandemic, there are a lot of events and new places opening to visit for the very first time.

A place I definitely will write about is the island of Procida that this year has been nominated as Italian Capital of Culture 2022. Many events on the land and sea have been organised and a taste of the flavours of the Mediterranean cuisine. Definitely a place to visit!!

Finally also in Napoli, tourists are slowly returning and actually, for the summer, many hotels and b&bs are already fully booked!

Of course, please consider that rules to visit museums and art galleries are changing on a daily basis so I will try and keep all information up to date. It is recommended to book ahead of a visit to a museum as now in many places there are limited spaces for visitors. Remember also that from April to October it is free entry in all museums every first Sunday of the month.

It’s so good to know that we can start to think about travelling again and return to our ‘normal’ life.

Napoli is finally open to the world once again! Welcome back! Bentornati!

Welcome back to Napoli!

A Neapolitan very committed to social distancing!

Underground Napoli: The Metro.

Toledo station in via Toledo. 

Napoli is not only a unique city on the surface, but also going into its depths you can discover another fascinating city.  Under Napoli, there is a universe that goes from the greek foundations through the roman ruins and up to the modern day Metro.  I will write about the complex city of catacombs, tunnels and aqueducts in my next post, but In this one I will talk about the metro underground train system, or metropolitana which is how we call it in Italian.  Considered one of the most beautiful underground systems in Europe, the metro has received a lot of recognition all over the world, including pieces in the British Daily Telegraph and America's CNN. 

You might say "but it's only a metro station!". Well, it is far from being an ordinary metro station.  it's stations are definitely different from any other city in the world.  Every station of the Linea 1 is a unique contemporary 'art gallery' with each station displaying contemporary art from some of the the most recognized and celebrated artists of the present day.  A labyrinth of tunnels and art galleries with references to the history and culture of the city.

Linea 1 (Line 1), which connects Vomero with the centre of the city, started in the 1970's but was often interrupted due to earthquakes and archealogical finds. In 1995, The Comune di Napoli (Council of Napoli) decided to create spaces of "beauty" in the every-day-neapolitan-life.  The new metro stations offered the perfect space in order to make people more engaged to the contemporary artistic scene, so it was called the 'Stazioni dell'arte' (Stations of art).  Along the stations of the metro there are more than 200 works of art created specifically for those spaces.

The Municipio station, started in 2003 and still going on for over a decade is definitely the most problematic and challenging of all the stations of the metro.  The station is now opened but there are still archealogical works still going on due to the incredible and enormous number of archeological artefacts found in the area.  In fact, this area was in roman times the port and during the centuries the sea has reseeded where now the square is.  Archeologists have found the remains of a thermal spa, the old fortifications of the city, a tower of the Aragon era, a palace and even five roman ships.  Many artefacts are on display inside the station. 

The first station opened was Vanvitelli station, at the top of the Vomero hill and one of the busiest stations of the metro.  Here artificial and natural light combine with signage in shades of blue, purple, yellow and grey.  The corridors that take the people from the streets to the trains are decorated with works of art by Neapolitan artists.

In 2001, more art stations were opened including Museo, Salvator Rosa and Quattro Giornate. 

The Museo (Piazza Cavour) station, the stop for the Archeological Museum,  was a project by the architect Gae Aulenti.  The theme is related to the museum and the artefacts inside: corridors and tunnels in red and glass harking back to Pompeiian villas, a copy of the Hercules at rest, made by the Art Academy nearby.  The corridors that lead from the train to the museum are darker with the photographs of roman statues by the artist Mimmo Jodice. At the entrance of the station is a copy of the roman statue 'Laocoön'.  In the other corridors on display are artefacts found during the building works of other stations. 

Salvator Rosa station is the perfect example of the connection between the metro and its surroundings, where even the buildings outside have been decorated in the style of the station.  Here many important Neapolitan and Italian contemporary artists have collaborated, just to name a few; Ernesto Tatafiore, Gianni Pisani, Mimmo Rotella, Mimmo Paladino and Renato Barisani.  Mosaics, volcanic stones, red, blue and brightly coloured tiles and golden marble welcome every day, workers, students and tourists.  The entrance is through a playground where there are art installations by Alex Mocika, Augusto Perez, Renato Barisani, Lucio Del Pezzo, Nino Longobardi, Riccardo Dalisi, Ugo Marano.  From here the entrance to the station is through a huge pyramid in glass that references the guglie, the columns with saints in the city. 

Quattro Giornate station is on the eastern part of the Vomero, where the old stadium is.  Outside the station are statues in bronze and steel of athletes by Lydia Cottone.  The name quattro giornate is related to the historical event of the uprising of the Neapolitans against the Nazi's in September 1943.  At the entrance of the station there are statues by Nino Longobardi which remembers this episode. 

In 2002, two more stations were opened: Rione Alto station and Piazza Dante.

The Piazza Dante station is another busy station that serves the historical centre.  The architect Gae Aulenti created a station which echoed the  17th century square.  The result is quite impressive; the architect created many entrances to the station from every side of the square, transparent walls contrast with the volcanic stones of the square created by the architect Vanvitelli.  Once inside the station, the artist Joseph Kosuth welcomes people with his neon quotes on the walls by the famous writer Dante, who the square is named after.  While going through the escalator there are works by Jannis Kounellis and Michelangelo Pistoletto. 

Entrance to the ticket hall with neon quotes by Dante.

Colourful walls os Dante station. 

Installation in Dante station. 

Materdei station was opened in 2003, and is another interesting metro station.  Outside is an area completely closed to the traffic with a playground, a little park and many art installations.  Inside the station are many symbols of Neapolitan culture and characters from folklore of the city.  Platforms are decorated with wall drawings by Sol LeWitt and photographic installations. 

Materdei station platform. 

Bright colours and photographic panels.

Photographic installation.

Platform level. 

Under the pyramid of Materdei Station. 

The Universitá station which serves the university area was opened in 2011 and is a project by the architects Karim Rashid and Alessandro Mendini.  Here different materials are used, such as glass, steel and mirrors, with pink, purple and lime green colours.  Going down to platform level the space is created with digitally designed tiles and a light box with the words of the florentine poet Dante.  Again, past and present, Renaissance and contemporary collide. 

One of the most impressive and my personal favourite is, Toledo station designed by the Spanish architect Óscar Tusquets Blanca, opened in 2012.  Not a coincidence that the architect is Spanish as from the station it is possible to get to the Spanish Quarters (Quartieri Spagnoli)  one of the oldest parts of the city.  It is a journey into the depths of the city (50 meters), like into the depths of the sea.  The outside of the station is Via Toledo, the main shopping street of Napoli, here is the statue of The Knight of Toledo by the artist William Kentridge.  

The internal space of the station is decorated with volcanic stone and big orange circles with the first floor down echoing the ancient town walls of the Aragons.  There are mosaics by William Kentridge (Naples Procession) picturing the opening of the first train station in the city in 1906.  As you go deeper down into the station you come across another important element of the city, the sea.  On the second floor down, the walls become dramatically calm with the colours of blue and white . The more deeper you go the more bluer it gets becoming dark blue like the abyss of the ocean.  Looking up you can admire the impressive cone, Crater del luz, crater of light that with a display of LED lights gives the impression of the waves.  The artist Robert Wilson created the panels of the corridors to the platforms named "By the sea... you and me", which are series of lenticular photographs of the sea in movement.  The artist Achille Cevoli created a panel dedicated to the builders who made this station possible entitled Men at work. 

The mosaic 'Naples Procession' by William Kentridge at Toledo station. 

Toledo station: from the ground down to the sea. 

The crater of lights in Toledo station. 

Waves inside the Toledo station. 

"By the sea... you and me" by Robert Wilson at Toledo Station. 

The newest station is Garibaldi.  This is the connection at the main train station and was a project by the French architect Dominique Perrault.  The space is all in one structure, full of lights where the escalators and the people look like they are suspended on the mirrored walls.  The internal part is decorated with shiny panels in steel.  In here are two installations by the artist Michelangelo Pistoletto.  In this station the platforms are inspired by the London Underground. 

The newest metro line is Linea 6, connecting Municipio, Chiaia, Mergellina and Mostra (Fuorigrotta area).

The Chiaia metro station has been curated by the film director Peter Greenway and for its architecture and design has been given the award for the most beautiful metro station in the world by the Prix Versailles organisation.

Exit to the street from Garibaldi station. 

The metro, like in all other cities, will always be extended and improved, connecting more areas with the centre of the city and it will give more chances for artists to collaborate in a unique project.  The metropolitana of Napoli has became famous all over the world.  Neapolitans and tourists love it and of course, artists enjoy the opportunity to create unique spaces that can inspire the travelling public.  It is actually a very romantic notion to think how these works of art connect with so many people, wherever they are going to and wherever they are coming from, on Napoli's unique Metropolitana.  

For further info about timetables and stations click here in the section TRAVEL INFO. 

Pizzeria da Michele: London vs Napoli.

The life of a blogger is tougher than you think!.  Oh, yes it is!.  Just imagine, all the time going around the city, finding new places to see and trying new pizza restaurants.  It's tough!.  For my followers I would do anything!.  For this blog I am going to an old traditional Neapolitan pizzeria that has just opened in London.  I am talking about L' Antica Pizzeria da Michele.  

LONDON - Antica Pizzeria da Michele, 125 Stoke Newington Church St, Stoke Newington, London N16 0UH. 

NAPOLI - Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale 1, 80139 Napoli.

You might think 'well, there are many pizza restaurants in London, why is this one so special?'.  Well, first because it makes an amazing pizza and I can say this as a Neapolitan and secondly because it is one of the oldest pizzerias in Napoli, opened by Michele Condurro in 1870.  The Condurro's pizza making origins go even further back as the grandfather of Michele was a pizza maker at the court of the Bourbons.  In 1844 the grandfather made a pizza for the Russian Tzar Nicholas II and his wife Alessandrina Feodorwna, who had come to visit king Ferdinand II.  For this occasion he made a special pizza just for them: the cosacca, half marinara half margherita.  The legend says that they enjoyed the pizzas so much that they gave the Neapolitan king a present of two bronze statues, now in the gardens of the Royal Palace in Piazza Plebiscito.  The rest is history.  Since this time, the Condurro family have only made two types of pizzas: Margherita (mozzarella cheese, tomato, oil and basil) and Marinara (tomato, garlic, oil and oregano). 

Pizza Marinara in Napoli.

In the movie Eat Pray Love, Julia Roberts appears eating a delicious pizza in the Pizzeria da Michele.  You might of liked or not liked the movie, but honestly I can't disagree with Julia, 'It is a moral imperative to enjoy a pizza in Napoli!'.  

The menu at Antica pizzeria da Michele in Napoli.

The following step is to open a restaurant in other places in the world, so more people can enjoy amazing pizzas.  After Tokyo and Rome, London is next!.

LONDON - Pizzaioli (Pizza makers).

NAPOLI - Pizzaioli.

In cosmopolitan London which has a huge choice of international cuisines, it is a challenge to open a pizzeria with just two types of pizza.  It seems though for the expat Neapolitans they finally have a proper Neapolitan pizzeria in the UK and apparently, British people seem to appreciate it as well.  Probably the time of the 'pineapple pizza' is fading into the past.  More people around the world are well travelled now and appreciate authentic food and that is why Londoners are flocking to eat the proper Neapolitan Pizza.  Just a few weeks ago, in the London Evening Standard Newspaper, Gordon Ramsey expressed his opinion regarding the 'pineapple pizza', "an absolute no-no on the Italian dish".  Neapolitans have the same opinion.  Pineapple pizza is just wrong!.  Personally, I don't want to create a debate about it, but as a Neapolitan, I can understand why we are so passionate about it.  We take very seriously our products from Napoli.  We also want you to enjoy the best pizza available and not a second best experience.

Hungry Londoners.

And speaking of authenticity, if you want to go to L' Antica pizzeria da Michele in London, be aware that the pizzeria like the Napoli one is always busy and you can't book a table in advance.  The system is 'first come, first served', so I suggest you turn up as early as you can.  For the London one there is an app to tell you when it is your turn in the queue.

The pizza oven in Napoli.

Some people say that the real secret of the pizza is the water used to make the dough and that's why Neapolitan pizzas are so unique, however the London one is very close to the original.  The oven and the chefs were brought from Naples and the pizzas have the same authentic flavours.  The tomato sauce is deliciously fresh and the smell of the basil is amazing.  Ah!!, it really seemed to me that I was in Napoli...except for the weather!.

This is where Julia Roberts sat in Naples. 

London pizza before.

and after.

Spot the Julia.

This says it all.

L' Antica Pizzeria da Michele

London Opening hours:  12.00 - 23.00 (Sunday closes 10.30) Closed Monday.

Napoli Opening hours:    11.00 - 23.00 Closed Sunday.

Religion and Devotion in Napoli.

An aedicula in San Gregorio Armeno.

Easter is just around the corner, and like Christmas, it's a festival that's very important in the Neapolitan life.  That's why I thought it would be very interesting to write about religion in Napoli and how deep the connection is between religion and the city.  As soon as you step into Napoli, it's everywhere, not only in the churches but also in the streets. 

 During the centuries, an incredible number of churches (over 448) have been built in the heart of the city, to control the criminality and to comfort and help the people against poverty and the plague. That's why today we have real treasures in every street which makes the city even more special.  Many Neapolitans, are still very religious and express this sentiment in many ways as public and private devotion, not only in the churches, but also in their own homes and even in the street.

A modern type of aedicula on on via Girolamo Santacroce.

A modern aedicula in the narrow alleys of the inner city.

A modern aedicula.

If you have a wander around the city, you will certainly bump in to an aedicule on a street, it's like a shrine but different.  It's an architectural structure which might contain images, statues, flowes, lights and candles.  Its origin is very old and can be traced back to the greeks who used to distribute images of gods along the old city of Neapolis.  During the time of King Charles III of Bourbon in the 18th century, many aedicules were built, not only for religious purposes, but also to light up the narrow dark streets during the night due to the candles.  

Some aedicules have statues in terracotta with the shapes of naked men and women burning in flames.  They are the 'anime pezzentelle', the poor souls' of sinners in Purgatory waiting for absolution, in order to enter Paradise.  These statues have the features of real people, made for the relatives from the workshops in San Gregorio Armeno, in order to ask the people to pray for their lost souls.  You can find many of these  aedicules in the Spanish Quarter, Pizzofalcone and in the inner city.

The collection of ex-voto in Gesú Nuovo Church.

Another expression of devotion is the ex-voto, a votive offering to a saint or divinity in fulfilment of a vow, a gift of devotion or gratitude.  For example, people used to and still do, offer a letter and a metal plate with the shape of a body part or organ to a saint, or the Virgin Mary in order to receive healing.  Many of these plates can be found in churches around Naples, like at the Gesu' Nuovo in the centro storico.   

Ex-voto at the back of the glass case, offered to St. Francis Xaverio in the Gesú Nuovo Church.

Ex-voto in Gesú Nuovo Church.

Guglia dell'Immacolata in piazza del Gesú.

The guglia is some of the most interesting religious structure in Napoli.  It is a pinnacle or obelisk with saints, putti and angels raised to the sky.  There are quite a few in the city.  The most important is the Guglia dell'Immacoltata (Obelisk of the Immaculate Mary).  Situated in piazza del Gesu' in the heart of the old city, it was commissioned by the Jesuits in 1743 and funded by donations.  This theatrical obelisk dominates the square with its rich decorations of statues, reliefs and medallions.  It was designed by the architect Giuseppe Genuino and decorated by Matteo Bottigliero and Francesco Pagano in the rococo style.  At the top is the gilded copper statue of Mary.  Still today, on the 8th of December every year, the day of the celebration of the Immaculate, the mayor and the cardinal place a ladder against the monument and climb up to place a crown of flowers on the head of the madonna. 

The second most important and ancient guglia is the Guglia di San Gennaro, dedicated to the patron saint of Naples Saint Gennaro.  It is situated in piazza Sisto Riario Sforza, near The Pio Monte della Misericordia (the church with Caravaggio's painting seven acts of Mercy, see my blog) and not far from the Duomo, where the celebrations of the saint still take place.  This guglia was made by Cosimo Fanzago, one of the most important Neapolitan sculptors, a few years after the eruption of Vesuvius in 1631.  The Neapolitans believed (and still do now) that Saint Gennaro protected the city from the eruption.  A group known as The Delegation of the Treasure of San Gennaro decided to raise a statue to the saint.  The guglia is a celebration of the baroque style.  The base is decorated with volutes and sirens and at the top stands a bronze statue of San Gennaro, looking out watchful over his city. 

San Gennaro Guglia in Sisto Riario Sforza.

The third guglia is the obelisk in piazza San Domenico, built in 1656 by the Neapolitans for the Dominican order to prevent the plague.  For the importance of the work was called initially Cosimo Fanzago, whom was already working at the San Gennaro's guglia, and completed by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro in 1736. 

San Domenico guglia in piazza San Domenico.

It is so strong in our culture that even today we Neapolitans create new symbols of devotion.  It is not a scandal to find in the old town the aedicule dedicated to Diego Maradona, the Argentinian footballer who played for Napoli in the 80s.  Yes, why not?.  For many Neapolitans he is the greatest football player they ever had, who made Napoli title winners.  He is a little bit like Saint Gennaro who protected the city from the volcano, isn't he?

The aedicule dedicated to the football player Maradona, in the centro storico.

Very popular is jewellery inspired by the ex-voto.  The Neapolitan artist Daria Cadalt is the designer of the La Petitpoup Accessories, a handmade collection of necklaces, made out of gypsum with the shapes of small body parts, arms and hands. If you are interested in Daria's work, have a look at her Facebook page or her youtube channel, La Petitpoup Accessories. 

Jewellery inspired by the ex-voto culture, La Petitpoup Assessorise.

National Archeological Museum.

The National Archeological Museum is one of the most important museums of classical archeology in the world and it is absolutely a MUST SEE when you are in Napoli.

The building was originally constructed as a calvary barracks and then was used to house a university, before it was finally turned into a museum.  Over the centuries it has had many alterations for the purpose of housing its immense collection.

In the mid 18th Century, King Charles of Bourbon made available to the public his collection of antiquities inherited from his mother, 'the Farnese collection', which consisted of many amazing statues from Roman and Greek Antiquity.  The king himself was a collector of fine archeological treasures, especially from the nearby buried cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum.  He promoted the excavations of the two cities which were covered up by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD.  From these, he gained a large number of marble and bronze sculptures, inscriptions, mosaics, pottery, jewellery, wall paintings, and Roman knick-knacks of every kind.  This is the collection we still admire today.  

The model of Pompeii on the second floor, made in 1879.

A papyrus unrolled from the Villa dei Papyrus.

Nowadays, the museum is organised on four floors.  I personally  would suggest that you start from the top floor, which has the stunning collection of frescoes from Pompeii and Herculaneum, the hall of the Temple of Isis in Pompeii, and a model of the city of Pompeii before being destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius.  

On the same floor in the western halls there are collections from the cities of Ancient Greece and also Etruscan and Roman cities, such as Pozzuoli, Capua, Baia, Miseno and Capri.  

In the others halls there is the history of Naples and the magnificent collection of the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum.  Discovered in 1750, this was a typical private villa. Very impressive is the high number and fine quality of the statues found in the villa, intense portraits of ordinary people, athletes, dancers, philosophers and gods.  I always find it incredible how detailed these statues are, their faces, their hands, and their hair.  They still seem to be alive to me.  

Also housed here is the reason of the villa's name, the spectacular collection of more than 1000 papyrus rolls from the villa's library which survived the eruption, despite the fragile material of the scrolls and the high temperature of the lava.  When first discovered many people through curiosity tried to unroll them in order to read them, but all were damaged.  Only thanks to the invention of a machine in 1754 was it possible to open the rolls and read many of the most important texts of Greek literature, which otherwise would of been lost. 

One of the statues of a dancer from the Villa dei Papiri.

A statue found in the Villa dei Papiri.

Philosophers and athletes from the Villa dei Papiri.

Athlete.

The intense and dramatic bust of Seneca.

Row of busts.

Pan and the goat from The Villa dei Papiri.

Fresco from the Secret Cabinet.

Continuing the journey down to the first floor is the reconstruction of the Casa del Fauno (house of the Faun) from Pompeii, which has the original pavements, columns, mosaics (including the famous Mosaic of Alexander) and all the original artefacts from the villa.  It is amazing that most of the features of the house still have all their splendid and vivid colours. 

From these rooms it is possible to enter into the Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Cabinet).  This is the collection of erotic artefacts and mosaics from Pompeii as well as a reconstruction of a typical brothel.  It is very interesting to see the Roman's take on sexuality. 

The original statue of the Faun from Pompeii, on the first floor.

The mosaic pavement of Alexander, from the House of the Faun in Pompeii.

Amazing colourful features from the House of the Faun.

Wall paintings.

On the ground floor, where the entrance to the museum is, you can visit the Giardino delle Camelie (Garden of Camellias) and the Giardino delle Fontane (Garden of Fountains).  Here is also the famous Farnese collection, which includes the gallery of Roman Emperors, Philosophers and mythological figures, like the giant Hercules at rest and the monumental Farnese Bull (both dated around the end 2nd/early 3rd century AD and discovered around 1545-46 in the Caracalla baths).  Continuing on your journey you will then come across the Gem rooms.

The giant Hercules at rest at the ground floor.

Detail of the Hercules at rest.

The Farnese collection on the ground floor.

The Farnese Bull, made from a single block of marble.

Statues from the Farnese collection.

To finish your visit, you will go down to the basement where you will find the Egyptian and Epigraphs collection.  To know more about it, check out my blog Egypt in Napoli. 

Museo Archeologico Nazionale 

Piazza Museo 19 - 80137 Napoli.

Tel: +39 06 39967 050           

Tickets: € 12 / Concessions € 6 / Evening entry € 2  - Promotions are applied to Trenitalia and Frecciarossa customers, see the website. 

Free entry every first Sunday of the month.

Opening hours:  09.00 - 19.30.  Closed Tuesdays.

Closed December 25th and January 1st.

The entrance of the museum

La Movida . . . . Neapolitan Night life.

Alleys at night.

Napoli is a lively city at night as well as during the day.  As soon as the sun goes down, it becomes a very interesting universe of joyful people, kids playing football, girls wearing the best dresses just to impress, families, couples and singles, it is a place where everything is possible, even some bookshops turn into vibrant bars or the fishmonger shops into smart fish restaurants. 

Bars and restaurants are open until late and are always busy.  For late I mean, really late almost until dawn.  Some could be scared just to go out in the 'dangerous' alleys of Napoli.  It's nothing like that.  I have been living in Napoli all my life and I have always felt safe.  Just take the usual precautions that you would do in any other city.   I actually found that many tourists get used to this night 'lifestyle' very easily.  How could you not.

Especially in Summer, when the schools are finished, the heat is more gentle in the evening,  from the promenade to the historical centre, everywhere is always very crowded with markets, musicians or just people that can't sleep or don't want to.   Everywhere is an interesting place to visit.  It just depends of what you are looking for.  You can have a pizza or a burger, to sit in or take away.   There are also lounge bars and wine bars (enoteche), or listen to live classical music in an old churche or a dj set in a pub. 

Kids playing football in piazza Dante until late.

The areas called baretti which means 'little bars' have a lot of lounge bars, clubs and bars where you can have a nice drink and chill out with friends.  There are many around Napoli and they are not only for the young people, there is a huge choice for every age. The old town, from piazza Dante around piazza del Gesu' and  Monteoliveto is an area very crowded especially with students, in fact not far from there is a university.  Here there are lots of pizzerias, restaurants, kebab shops and bars where you can have a nice cocktail or a shot for €2.  Not far from here is the Keste' which is more than a bar, it's an art gallery with live music sessions. 

Book shops in the morning, bars in the evening in piazza Dante.

Pizzerias open until late, Port'Alba pizzeria.

San Sebastiano street at night.

In the posh area of Riviera di Chiaia you will find small and trendy bars with dj set music like the Kiki bar or many more around via Chiaia, via San Pasquale or vico Belledonne.  There is no need for me to tell you which one is the best, there are so many and they are always full of people.  A nice walk along the promenade to Borgo Marinari around the Castel dell' Ovo is a very interesting spot for restaurants and bars near the sea.

Going up to the hill of Vomero you will pass to via Aniello Falcone, another area full of baretti like Il Baretto, One, Baik or Flame.  The bonus of this area is the stunning view of the gulf, which is not included in the price!

Once you are at the Vomero, there is a good choice of bars and pubs, like Goodfellas, where every night there are live tribute bands performing. There is the famous Fonoteca with a huge range of classic cocktails and music.  Some other bars have on certain days of the week cocktails at fixed prices from around €1 to €3. 

All the areas have very trendy and popular bars so for me it is not easy to recommend one in particular.  The beauty of going out is not only the venue itself but what's around, in fact the night life is more outside, in the streets, in the narrow alleys and in the squares.  It is this vibe that makes this city so unique and charming.  

If you want to stay out until late be aware that much of the transports will close quite early (check the section Travel info of my website for metro and funicular timetables) however, you can walk from one place to another (for instance from the old part to the promenade is more or less 30 minutes) but if you are getting to or from the Vomero taking a taxi will cost you around €15. 

A typical Neapolitan night out is not to get drunk, but to enjoy some good food, a chat with friends and few drinks.  If you want to live like the 'local' you should go first to a pizzeria or a pub and then in one of those bars until you are not too tired.  There is no rush, remember, you are in Napoli, and here having a good time is more important than sleep!

Book shop in the daytime, bar at night, Perditempo, Vico S. Pietro a Maiella, 8, 80138.

Pizza take away at Pizzeria I Decumani, Via dei Tribunali, 58, 80138 Napoli

Another book shop/bar Libreria Berisio, Via Port'Alba, 28, 80134 Napoli.

If you need a quick refreshment, for a few euros you can have a handmade lemonade. 

NEW YEAR'S EVE IN NAPOLI.

Here we are again.  Like every year the same old question: what do you do for New Years Eve?. Clubbing?  Dinner with friends?  Staying in with the family just for the sake of saving money? Or just spend a ridiculous amount of money and enjoy the last day of the year like it was the last day of your life?  Whatever you do will be a blast.  At least for just one night.

And if you are in Napoli?.  Well, that's why I'm here!

If you have survived the family and the feasting during Christmas, just wait before because it's not finished yet.  There's still New Year's Eve!.  If you want to do something original book your flight to Napoli right now.

There are loads of things to do in Napoli for the longest and last night of the year.  First of all, if you are planning a last minute escape, I suggest you check the 4&5 star hotels as you might find a good last minute offer.  In case you have been lucky to find a room in an elegant suite with a sea view, or even a room in a nice b&b, the next step is organise the Capodanno (New Year's Eve).

One of the most popular things to do is having the cenone, a meal in a restaurant.  Menu deals can go from €60 up to €150 including antipasti, main fish or meat, dessert and drinks.  You can ask in your hotel for any good restaurants nearby and very often the hotels themselves arrange parties for the 31st as well.

Waiting for midnight, in general means going to Piazza Plebiscito for the mega concert with many famous national and international names.  It starts at 21.30 and goes on until midnight.  At 01.30 there are marvellous fireworks and disco music along the promenade by the Castel dell'Ovo.

This year the landscape of the promenade is more interesting with the huge construction of the Christmas tree with restaurant and bars.  The N'Albero will be open all night on the 31st in case you want to celebrate midnight on one of the most beautiful terraces overlooking the stunning gulf of Napoli.

You know that the night of the 31st is always too long and there is a long list of clubs and lounge bars where you can go.  From the numerous bars in via Aniello Falcone (the area between Vomero and the promenade) where you can also admire the fireworks, to the american bars in via Chiaia.   One of the coolest places in the old centre is the bar Keste'.  It's a lounge restaurant/bar with live music sessions and for New Years Eve the cenone and dj set will be going all night long.

If you are not into dance music and you prefer something more classical, it is an amazing experience to go and visit the opera house Teatro San Carlo.  Every year there are classical concerts and ballets, also the theatre itself is a must see place.  This year from the 29th of December to the 4th of January the theatre will be showing the classic of all the Christmas classics 'The Nutcracker'.

There are many things to do on New Years Day as well.  In general, most of the people spend this day recovering from the hangover from the night before, however Napoli doesn't stop yet.  Probably, many shops will be closed, but many of the most important museums will be open and free.  A good way to start your year off would be to visit the beautiful works of art at the Royal Palace, San Martino, or the interesting artefacts at the Archeological Museum.  Always double check the opening times as some will be open until late at night.

Wherever you will be on the night of the 31st a very sober girl from naples wishes you a very Happy New Year!

Christmas in Napoli: TRADITION & HISTORY.

Shopping and lights in via Scarlatti, Vomero.

Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way!.  If you are reading this singing, no worries, you're not mad!, it's just the Christmas mood is on!. 

Christmas is definitely my favourite time of the year.  I feel that it brings my child side out and many happy memories.  All memories of my Naples of course!.  I can't imagine spending it away from my city, family and friends.  Napoli in December is absolutely beautiful and I know that many other cities are beautiful too with all the lights and decorations and people feeling festive on the streets, but trust me, Napoli is something else.  It's magical.  Here, people are not too stressed about shopping for presents because they know how important this time of year is.  So the consumeristic side of it hasn't taken away the magic of Christmas.  In Napoli, Christmas means being with your family and all the people you love the most, eating loads of food, drinking wine, playing games and visiting relatives (even if we can't stand them!).  I know that this is how most people spend their Christmas days as well, but in Naples there's something more.  It's a feeling, an experience, a magical atmosphere extended through out all the city.  It's not easy to explain, that's why I always suggest coming to Napoli in this period to see for yourself.  This is the time where all our deepest traditions come to life.  There are many of them.  Too many to talk about on this blog, but I will tell you about some of the most important ones.

Details of the Presepe in San Lorenzo Maggiore church.

Typical characters of the Nativity scene. Details of the Presepe in the Cathedral of Naples..

One is the Presepe.  It consists of the Nativity scene and in almost every neapolitan home or church there is one.  We create the scene of the birth of Jesus in a complex installation of an imaginary village with all the figures (pastori) of every size and colour, sometimes with real lights and water for the fountains and lakes.  It's a place where time and culture, religion and history collide in one small universe.  You can even find figures of a pizza maker or a butcher near the Holy Family!.  And this is how we think of the Presepe.  Even if it is an old tradition, it can be still modern.  Neapolitans for centuries have passed on this tradition, from royalty to the poor people, loved by young and old.  

Always remember to put the statue of the little Jesus in the presepe at midnight and not before!.

If you are in Napoli in December you can't missing going to San Gregorio Armeno also known as Christmas Alley.  See the map underneath for location.

San Gregorio Armeno.

Situated in the old town, this is not just a simple street lit up for Christmas.  It's much, much more.  It's where all the workshops of the Presepe display their incredible creations that they have been working hard on, all year long.  In fact, San Gregorio Armeno is open all year round and visitors can admire the immense installations and statues, which sometimes are more like proper works of art and be quite expensive as well.

Have I mentioned the massive range of food and drinks yet?.  Well, yes Christmas more than ever is the time to eat specialities of the neapolitan cusine, always in abundance, like it was the end of the world!.  Appetizers, starters, antipasti, pasta, fish, desserts, any sort of chocolate pandori, panettoni and much more. 

Food at the Cardillos!

In many families, like mine, Christmas Eve is more important than the actual day of the 25th.  You wait all year for this moment of calm, where every problem is forgotten.  At least for one night!.  Am I too romantic for your taste?.  Yes, I know, but I can't help it.  I was born in Napoli and we live like that.  

If you are christian, you go to the midnight mass, otherwise you are at home waiting for midnight, playing all sorts of games, losing or winning some money (in general, I always tend to lose!).  

Tombola.

The most popular game is Tombola.  It's more or less like bingo, every number has a meaning (a lot of them with a sexual reference!).  Tombola was invented in 1734 during the reign of King Charles III of Bourbon.  It consists of a triangular basket (panaro) that holds 90 numbers and the cards (cartelle) to play with.  There is also the femminielli tombola.  Femminielli is a neapolitan terms to indicate homosexual with femminine gender expression which was believed to bring luck.

If you are planning to come during the Christmas holidays there are also concerts in many churches in the old centre like in San Giovanni Maggiore, at the Academy of music in San Pietro a Maiella and at the Cathedral.  Which is a very evocative thing to do if you want to enjoy classical music in medieval and baroque churches.  All the events are free.

What makes it magical in the streets on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day are the zampognari, musician shepherds playing one of the most famous Italian carols 'Tu scendi dalle stelle' (You Come Down From the Stars) with bagpipes and a piffero, which is a kind of small oboe.  In general the musicians are always in pairs, going around the streets, often to raise money for charity.  The origin of the zampognaro is not very clear, it certainly comes from the folkloristic music from central and southern Italy.  The zampognari is a popular character used in the Presepe, often placed next to the Christ child so to play him a sweet lullaby in this holy and cold night of December.      

As I previously said, I fully recommend going to Naples at Christmas time if you can.  Plan your journey far in advance, in August or September, as prices can be very expensive nearer the time.  But believe me, it's really worth it.  I hope you will enjoy it like I do!.

Buon Natale everybody from the Girl from Naples!

 

WHAT'S ON IN DECEMBER - outside Napoli!

December 2015 decorations in Salerno, Luci d'Artista (Artist's Lights).

In my previous blog I mentioned all the activities going on in December in Napoli.  But there are also many more things to do in the areas outside of Napoli.  

One of the most popular and amazing experiences are the lights in Salerno.  Salerno is a city about an hours drive south of Naples.  It is also has a mainline train station.  It's more than just a city with standard Christmas decorations.  Artists Lights (Luci d'artista) is an event that has been going on for many years. The whole city is decorated with amazing light displays which last from November 5th until January 22nd.  It is very popular and so very busy, but it is definitely worth the visit!.  

The old town turns into a wondrous labyrinth, a secret garden of magical trees with flowers coming out from the windows of the houses, and flying carpets hanging above our heads.  There is a park which is transformed by famous scenes from the Disney movies.  Alice in Wonderland, Pinocchio's whale, Cinderella's pumpkin coach and the stunning captain Hook's galleon.  Describing it doesn't do it justice, but I strongly recommend going.  

For more info about Salerno and how to get to it, check their website out - Comune di Salerno 

This year there are also new Christmas markets and a presepe (nativity) created completely in sand, a giant ferris wheel and several concerts.  As in the past, the decorations follow a theme and this year the theme is 'The Christmas, The Myth, The Dream and The Time'.  

The giant whale from Pinocchio.

The Alice in Wonderland garden.

Sorrento is a popular holiday destination in December as well as in the summer.  I'm not surprised because Sorrento is charming and elegant all year round.  The city at Christmas is absolutely stunning, starting from the Christmas tree in the main square, piazza Tasso and all the decorations around the restaurants, bars and alleys and the cloister of San Francis.  There are many events, concerts, street food stalls, Christmas markets and much more.  Also very atmospheric are the classical and jazz concerts in the Cathedral and in many other churches.  For the full program of events check the website of the Comune di Sorrento.

Pompeii is not only a historical place to visit for the roman city, but during Christmas the modern town hosts events and concerts with some big names of the Neapolitan music scene.  There is also jazz, world and mediterranean music, as well as exhibitions of presepi, ancient roman cooking demonstrations, carols from the Renaissance times and visits to Babbo Natale's (Santa Claus) house.  All the events are for charity to help raise money for the people who's homes were destroyed by the earthquake in central Italy this year.  For more info & contacts visit the website of the Comune di Pompei

If you haven't visited the stunning Royal Palace in Caserta this is a good time to go.  The admission fee will only be €3 from the 7th of December until the 6th of January.  During this period there will be an amazing light show through all the palace including the fountains and lakes made by the artist Francesco Capotorto.  Info here - Reggia di Caserta. 

On the island of Ischia, tradition and modernity meet.  There will be music on the beaches, Christmas carols in the old town, artists performances, living presepi and codfish will be cooked on the streets.  Don't forget that Ischia is famous for its spas since the Roman times.  It could be a good present to yourself!  For more info check the official website of the Comune di Ischia.

If you are a Christmas market lover you shouldn't miss the ones around the Campania region, in the other towns and villages in the countryside and along the coast.

Bacoli is a lovely city located about 15km west of Naples and will hold a Christmas village in the centro storico, with handicraft shops, food and local wine stands.  There will also be a Babbo Natale house and street artists and music sessions. 

The lovely medieval village Sant' Agata dei Goti, near Benevento, is ready to welcome tourists by lighting up it's Christmas Grotto, where all the small yards, gardens and houses will reveal their secrets and mysteries through the night. 

At the magical castle of Limatola, near Benevento, there is a Christmas market where there are stands with local products, food, home decorations, nativity scenes, presepi, antiquities and much more.  The market will be open every day from 10 in the morning until midnight.

As you can see, there is a great choice of atmospheric events in all the Campagnia Region and most of them are free.  What more can you can ask for?.  The food and drink are heaven and in every place there is something that you will never ever find anywhere else.  What are you still doing at home?.  If it is too late for this year, it might be a good idea for next year.  Travelling is always a good present.  And if you travel to Campania, it is even better!   

Christmas tree in Salerno.

WHAT'S ON IN DECEMBER?

San Gregorio Armeno.

Napoli is a great city to visit during the Christmas holidays.  Of course, it's good to visit anytime of the year, but in December there's an amazing vibe.  If you are going, or thinking about going to Naples in December, here is all the info on what's going on in the city in December.  If not, well, maybe now's a good time to plan a trip for next year!

San Gregorio Armeno.

You can feel Christmas in every corner of the city, from San Gregorio Armeno to the promenade.  This year more than ever is going to be stunning.  First of all, there are going to be many activities from the 8th December, the official date for the opening of the season.  

This year the main attraction is the giant 'N'albero, a Christmas tree formed of three terraces and more than 30 metres tall, situated at the Rotonda Diaz by the promenade.  In the bottom section which is free to enter, there are art galleries, shops, restaurants, a bistro and an american bar, where it is possible to taste any kind of food, from the traditional neapolitan to sushi.  At the top section there is the breathtaking panoramic terrace overlooking the bay of Naples.  There is an admission fee for the top section which has not been confirmed, but will be around €8 and will be open from 10 in the morning until 10 at night.  It will be accessible by lifts.  During the weekdays it will be possible to attend yoga classes, live music sessions and other various events and will be visible from all the gulf and the islands.  It will be open from December 8th everyday until February 8th.

Decorations all around Napoli: via dei Mille.

Not only the promenade is going to shine but also the old town (centro storico).  Here, on December 10th there is going to be "The Night of Art", which In Italian is Notte d'Arte - 2016 NutriMenti, culture e cibo nella storia dei popoli, which literally means 'feed the mind' and will be a series of cultural and gastronomical activities of every aspect of the neapolitan tradition and history and will take place in all the squares, shops, museums, churches and cloister gardens all night long.  Particularly interesting are the non-stop concerts at the church of San Pietro a Majella.  

Do you need another reason to visit Napoli?.  Well, I will give you another one; all these activities in the Notte d'Arte will be free and I bet, very busy.  But that's the beauty of Napoli: every experience is best only when you are sharing the joyful moment with other neapolitans and visitors.

There will be Christmas decorations at the entrance of the train station in Piazza Garibaldi where there will be an exhibit of the first presepe completely in ice.  It will be on display from December 6th until January 8th and will be absolutely unique in all the world.  The ice presepe has been carved from 20 tonnes of ice. 

There will be also be a tour around the secrets and mysteries of Naples, looking for ghosts and legends in the heart of Napoli.  Tickets for the tour are €8 (€5 reduced, free for kids under 12 years old) and will start at the church of Santa Maria la Nova.

Loads of things to do then!.  I hope you will enjoy your Christmas in Napoli and come back very soon!

In the meantime....decorations in Casa Cardillo! 

The new installation of N'Albero by the promenade.

Egypt in Napoli.

Entrance of the Egyptian Collection at the level -1.

In October 2016 the galleries of the Egyptian Collection at The Archeological Museum in Naples reopened to the public.  Situated in the basement, at level -1, it is an interesting opportunity to discover ancient life by the Nile.  The collection is the second most important in Italy after Turin. 

It was started in 1821 by Cardinal Stefano Borgia who collected and archived several objects from Egypt.  Today it counts about 2500 Egyptian artefacts datable to Early Dynastic and Byzantine Periods (3000 BC - AD 640).  

The new permanent exhibition explores all the different aspects of Egyptian life in the following sections; Men and Pharaohs, Tombs and Grave-goods, Mummification, The Magical and Religious Word, Scriptures, Jobs, Egypt in Campania and the Epigraphic section. 

The most interesting part, in my opinion, is the Mummification section.  The star of the section is the crocodile, remarkably preserved in its original bandaging of fabric and palm leaves.  Next to the crocodile are two baby crocodiles.  In ancient Egypt, crocodiles were connected to the god Seth or to the god Sobek.  The crocodile was a holy animal and was cared for, decked with jewelry and treated with devotion until it's death and then buried in holy ground.  Another interesting aspect of the mummification section is the preservation of body parts separately, like heads and feet, which are on display but I have avoided to put the pictures in as they look quite creepy!.

Egyptians were very fashionable. Most of the sophisticated jewellery found inside the tombs are not too far away from a bracelet or earring from a trendy shop on the high street. 

In the following halls are exhibited the beautiful statues of Kings and gods and it is really interesting to see how powerful Pharaohs were, treated like gods in life and in death.  The last section of the gallery is dedicated to Egyptian documents.  Thanks to those long rolls of papyrus, we now know how Egyptians used to live, their relationships with gods and religion and much more.

Visiting the Archeological Museum is a MUST when you come to Napoli, so I will very soon write about other sections and about the building itself, as it is one of the oldest Archeological Museums in the World. 

The Epigraphic section at the Archeological Museum.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale - Piazza Museo 19 - 80137 Napoli. Tel: +39 06 39967 050           

Tickets: € 12 / Reduced € 6 / Evening entry € 2  - Promotions are applied to Trenitalia and Frecciarossa costumers, see the website. 

Opening hours: Every day except Tuesdays 09.00 - 19.30.  Closed December 25th and January 1st.

Pizza Experience for the Addicted!

Pizzeria al 22, Via Pignasecca 22, 80134 - Napoli

As soon as you land in Napoli you can already smell the pizza!  Yes, I'm not joking!.  As a welcome to the city there's the first pizzeria already at the arrivals exit.

My husband actually still believes that neapolitan children (especially me!) are born in a pizzeria. You can't explain otherwise our insane love for pizza!.  I am not a scientist myself, but I can certainly prove that eating one pizza per day helps to keep you fit and healthy.  You can't argue with simple ingredients like tomato, olive oil and basil.  It's good for your wallet (posh food but affordable) and mainly for your mood.  It tastes so good and satisfying.  It means love yourself and the others.  That's why 'going out for a pizza' is the most common social activity in Napoli, almost a spiritual moment.  A philosophy of life.

If your mouth is already watering just at the idea of eating a pizza, guess what it would be like to make your very own pizza!

Pizza maker on the job.

The guys at Pizza Experience have some courses running in Napoli in November and December. Its a complete full immersion course to help you understand the tradition and history of this popular food.  Well, not to mention that you will be able to make your own pizza from scratch with all the traditional ingredients and prepare the dough in the famous traditional way by hand.  I haven't personally done these courses so I can't comment on them, but if anyone is interested here is some of the info they sent my way.

Making pizzas at Pizzeria al 22.

The first of these two workshops "Fatte 'na Pizza" (Have a pizza) will be held every Sunday of November in association with Pizzeria Al 22.  Participants will be welcomed by Giovanni Improta, descendant of a family of pizza makers and will have four hours to make their pizza and at the end to taste the result together with a selection of typical Neapolitan food, local wine and beers. 

In December (from 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17, 18, 27, 28, 29 and 30) the workshop will be Take a look at that pizza in Rosario Piscopo’s Pizzeria.  Here she will reveal secrets, tips and techniques for a proper pizza.  At the end participants can eat the food freshly made, discuss food and traditions and have a really fun time.

Education of the pizza means to know how to taste and appreciate its flavours. Once that you have tried a real neapolitain pizza there's no way back and you will never ever look at your frozen pizza from the supermarket the same way!

Courses will be held in the pizzerias, closed to the public only for this occasion, in English, Italian and Neapolitan. At the end the participants will receive a certificate of attendance, a personalized apron, a typical Neapolitan keepsake and not least the energy and the Neapolitan life philosophy!.

Itinerary of the courses:

'Fatte 'na Pizza'

Welcoming Neapolitan style Coffee;  Presentation of the Neapolitan pizza - Historical overview from the beginning until today;  Selection of the raw materials and description of the basic equipment; Demonstration and preparation of the dough made by hand;  Insights on the leavening and maturation process;  Preparation of the wood-fired oven and baking of your own pizza in order to eat it folded in four;  Tasting at the table of three Neapolitan pizzas paired with beer, wine or soft drink;  Presentation of the attendance certifications and gadget gifts with souvenir photo;  Final toast.

Min 2 - Max 12 people.

Duration: 4hrs (tasting included)

Sunday, 6-13- 20-27 November 2016 - Schedule 2017 on www.pizzaexperience.it

10.00 to 14.00

€ 75,00 per person (a launch price just for the Sundays in November)

€ 65.00 children from 6 to 16 years

Free for bambini from 0 to 5 years

www.pizzaexperience.it - info@pizzaexperience.it - tel: +39 345.1049203

Pizzeria Al 22, Via Pignasecca 22, 80134 - Napoli

'Take a look at that pizza'

Presentation of the Neapolitan pizza - Historical overview from the beginning until today;  Selection of the raw materials and description of the basic equipments;  Demonstration of a dough prepared by hand made by the Master pizza maker;  Insights on the leavening process and preparation of the pizza;  Tasting of mix fried food and traditional pizzas paired with beer, wine or soft drink;  Presentation of the attendance certifications and gadget gifts;  Final toast.

Min 6 - Max 28 people

Duration: 2hr30mins

Thursday and Friday from 17.00 to 19.30

Saturday and Sunday from 10.00 to 12.30

December 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17, 18, 27, 28, 29 and 30 - Schedule 2017 on www.pizzaexperience.it

€ 39.00 per person

€ 34.00 children from 6 to 16 years

Free for bambini from 0 to 5 years

www.pizzaexperience.it - info@pizzaexperience.it - tel +39 345.1049203

Pizzeria Rosario Piscopo, Via Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone 100, 80132 - Napoli

Apprentices.

Caravaggio in Napoli.

When you look at Caravaggio's paintings you are also looking at Napoli. It is in the chiaroscuro, the contrast between the dramatic darkness and light, in the visceral depiction of bodies, dirty hands, expressive faces which are taken directly from the poor streets of Napoli.

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1571-1610) visited Napoli twice, in 1606 on the run from a murder charge in Rome and in 1610, just before his death on the way back to Rome.  Napoli was a part of the Spanish Empire at that time and the city was a vibrant cultural and economic centre due to its important port.  Many artists from all over Europe were attracted to the city by the commissions for the many churches and cathedrals.

In Napoli Caravaggio painted The Madonna of the Rosary (now at the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna), The Flagellation of Christ (now at the Museo di Capodimonte, Napoli) and the stunning Seven Works of Mercy for the high altar of the Church of Pio Monte della Misericordia, which still stands today, together with the painting in its original position. This is definitely one of my favourite Caravaggio paintings.  The architecture of the church seems to be constructed around the painting in a silent devotion to the artist. Caravaggio gave to Napoli one of his most breathtaking masterpieces.  The painting is an image of the city where he tried to find comfort in a desperate time of his life.

Pio Monte della Misericordia was an institution founded by a group of noblemen dedicated exclusively to acts of human charity.  The word misericordia means mercy.  Caravaggio, portrayed in the painting the seven acts of physical mercy, which are; to bury the dead, visit the imprisoned, feed the hungry, shelter the homeless, clothe the naked, visit the sick and refresh the thirsty.

The scene is a revolutionary vision.  All the acts are taking place in a mysterious dark neapolitan vicolo (alley) in the lower part of the painting, whilst in the top part are two floating angels supporting the Madonna of Mercy with Child.

Caravaggio was very successful and famous in Napoli, however after a few months he decided to leave the city and ended up in Malta with the Knights of St John and then Sicily.  

He finally returned to Napoli in 1610 on the way to Rome, in order to receive forgiveness from the Pope for his misdeeds. This is when he  painted The Denial of Saint Peter, (now at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York) and John the Baptist (now in Villa Borghese, Rome) and his last masterpiece Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, which has recently been attributed to him. This is the last dramatic painting of a unique artist.  From the dark background, figures emerge in a silent procession of human bodies, the Saint and villains all together.  Even Caravaggio himself participates in the scene, just behind Saint Ursula's head. The flesh is so pale in contrast with the black and the red of the clothes. 

For sure, Caravaggio understood Napoli and the neapolitans like no other painter and after him the artistic life in Napoli would never be the same.  He left behind a very prolific Caravaggesque movement with Neapolitan artists who kept alive his style, painting subjects that Caravaggio himself made popular.  Artists like Mattia Preti, Salvator Rosa, Joseph de Ribera and Battistello Caracciolo, who was considered to be one of his truest followers.

Running until 15th January 2017 at London's National Gallery is the exhibition Beyond Caravaggio.  It's worth visiting as there are many references to Napoli and Neapolitan artists which will make you understand better his his life and his connection with Napoli.

Where to see Caravaggio in Napoli: 

Pio Monte della Misericordia, via dei Tribunali, 253 - 80139 Napoli. Tel. +39 081 44 69 44 / Tickets: €7 / Reduced: €5

Opening hours:  Mon - Sat, 09.00 - 18.00 / Sun 09.00 - 14.30

Museum of Capodimonte, via Miano, 2 - 80131 Napoli. Tel. +39 081 74 99 154 / Email. mu-cap@beniculturali.it / Tickets: €8 / Reduced: €4

Opening hours:  Every day except Wednesdays, 08.30 - 19.30

Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano, via Toledo, 185 - 80132 Napoli. Tel. +39 800 454 229 / Email. info@palazzozevallos.com / Tickets: €5 / Reduced €3  

Opening hours:  Mon closed, Tue - Fri 10.00 - 18.00  / Sat - Sun 10.00 - 20.00