RIONE SANITA'

September 17, 2024

Rebirth. There is no more appropiate word to describe what is happening to the Sanitá district, the area between Capodimonte and the back of the Archeological Museum.

In the past, this part of the city was very dangerous and very poor. Famous to be the set of many old movies and to be the birth place of the most popular Neapolitan comedian, actor and poet of all time ‘Totó’, where today you can visit his old home.

Situated in the Stella-San Carlo quarter, Sanitá as we see it today was developed in the 16th century on land north of Napoli outside the walls of the city.

Originally, Sanita was a wooded area with springs of pure water (probably from this it took the name Sanitá, health) and it started off as a greek-roman burial area and this is where you can find the greek and early christian catacombs of San Gennaro and San Gaudioso and also the Fontanelle Cemetery, where victims of the plague were buried in 1656. This might be another theory about the origin of the name. Not only the health of the living but also of the dead. This is explained by the deep connection between Neapolitans and the after life. The Fontanelle cemetery is a typical example of this where people used to come to the cemetery and ‘adopt’ a skull or a skeleton in order to look after it and ask for a ‘miracle’. You can read more about the cemetery here.

Centuries after centuries, Sanitá became very poor and dangerous, even though royalty and aristocratic families built their palaces in the area and many religious orders settled there too. This is the reason why Sanitá has the highest number of churches in Napoli.

Only in recent years have things started to change for the better in Sanitá. Inhabitants started to tire of the increasing crime rate and decided to try and improve the area themselves. This part of Napoli, completely abandoned by institutions and politicians for so many years, is improving thanks to the courage and industry of many young Neapolitans, who instead of move abroad (like many) decided to work hard and make the area a better place to live and more pleasant for tourists to visit and see all the amazing things this zone has to offer.

Lots of things to see in Sanitá then. First of all the Fontanelle Cemetery, which is planned to reopen soon after a restyling of the entrance by the world renowned Italian architect Lorenzo Piano.

As I have already mentioned, the key of this rebirth is the younger generation which made possible the restoration and the reopening of the San Gennaro and San Gaudioso catacombs. It is called the Cooperative of the Paranza. To know more about the catacombs and this project visit their official website here: Catacombs of Naples.

This Cooperative is also responsable for the restoration of Sant' Aspreno ai Crociferi church, where the sculptor Jago based his studio and his permanent exhibition of sculptures. His art is deeply inspired by the classical sculpture of the greatest Italian sculptors such as Michelangelo. Jago is so deeply inspired by this area and and Napoli which is visible in his works of art, in particular the Veiled son, a clear reference to the Veiled Christ in the Sansevero chapel. Jago is also working on a very ambitious project for Sanitá: making a giant David statue like Michelangelo’s statue in Florence, but in the guise of a woman.

The model of Jago's statue in Sant' Aspreno ai Crociferi church.

You can visit the the Jago Museum and the catacombs with the same ticket and it is valid for one year.

There is also the restoration of the abandoned church of Santa Maria Maddalena ai Cristallini (also known as Chiesa dei Cristallini). The church reopened as an art gallery after being closed for 40 years. Locals contributed in creating their own works of art inspired by the life and people of the area. It is filled with portraits of the same residents you can see on the streets of Sanitá, who have lived here with their families all their lives.

A little hidden gem of Sanitá is the Palazzo dello Spagnolo, in via dei Vergini. The Palace was built in 1738 for an aristocratic family and is an exquisite example of Neapolitan Rococo style. Today the palace is divided into apartments although it is open to the public for guided tours.

The younger generation as well as students moving in and immigrant communities settling there as well as tourists visiting is creating a new dynamism in Sanitá then. Thanks to them many abandoned churches or convents have now been converted into bed and breakfasts and hotels in order to attract tourists. This definitely seems to be working! A big advantage of Sanitá is that is a cheaper area to stay in although at the same time it is very central. This has led to many a new opening of pizzerias and typical Neapolitan food restaurants. One pizzeria even has a Michelin star ‘Michelin da Concettina ai Tre Santi’. Enjoy!.

Nativity in one of the shops on San Gregorio Armeno.

PRESEPE NAPOLETANO

November 16, 2023

The Christmas tree in many parts of the world is the symbol of Christmas. Not in Napoli. Here we have a very old and deep tradition: The Presepe, the Nativity.

There’s no Neapolitan house that doesn’t have their own version of the Presepe: small or large, simple or elaborate, modern or classical. In fact, one of my oldest memories as a child was of my grumpy uncle who turned into a happy child when he showed you his presepe, ‘his masterpiece’, which he displayed the whole year round in the living room.

Some people go mad decorating their homes and lawns with Christmas lights and decorations. Neapolitans go crazy with the nativity.

We need to go back in history to really understand the deep connection between this tradition and the Neapolitans. The 17th century is the golden age of the Presepe, however the origins date back far longer, as they were first documented in the 11th century.

The first known church to display a Presepe was in the 15th century when San Domenico Maggiore church displayed the Nativity scene inside a cave made with real stones rumoured to have been brought from Palestine. Since then until now every church in Naples displays its own Presepe.

The figures of the Neapolitan Presepe include the traditional statues of the Holy Family and also of the ‘Pastori’, which are made up of the shepherds, as well as lots of characters found on the old streets of Naples such as fishermen, merchants, bakers and ordinary men, women and children. Eventually these Presepe became status symbols where aristocrats and rich merchants began to commission pastori with their own features to display in their extravagant nativity scenes and a whole industry sprung up to meet this growing demand. Many workshops started to specialise in making these statues and you can still find them in the old town on the street known as San Gregorio Armeno. Even King Charles III of Bourbon was a fan who actively encouraged the practice. The 17th century was when the technique of making the statues was perfected. The faces were made with terracotta, which could give them a realistic range of facial expressions, then glass eyes were added. The bodies were constructed of bound string, richly dressed in expensive fabrics.

Today in the shops on San Gregorio Armeno you will find statues of figures from contemporary life such as footballers which include of course Maradona, the royal family, celebrities from the world of music and film and even pizzaiolo’s (pizza makers). Here you can also purchase the scenes to place them in which often resemble Neapolitan alleyways. If you go in the month of December expect to encounter large crowds. Be warned, it gets very busy!.

Nowadays, some of the most magnificent Presepe in Napoli are the ones exhibited inside the Museum of San Martino and at the Royal Palace on Piazza Plebiscito. The most spectacular one in San Martino is known as Presepe Cuciniello named after the nobleman who commissioned it in 1879 and it still sits in its original position. This Presepe is a unique example of the technology of its day. It sits inside a cave behind huge glass windows and a machine recreates the different stages of the day, from sunrise to dusk and throughout the night-time, all in a matter of minutes. The Presepe includes all manner of figures and every type of animals, as well as exquisitely crafted fruits and vegetables and meats and fish.

See more in the section I wrote about San Martino here.

*Presepe Cuciniello*, dated 1879 in San Martino.

Part of the collection of the Presepe section of the museum in San Martino.

The Presepe on display at the Royal Palace, belongs to the Banco di Napoli and it is a collection of several Neapolitan artists, like Giuseppe Sanmartino (sculptor of the breathtaking Cristo Velato in the Sansevero Chapel). It is a 17th century Neapolitan scene in which all the figures wear oriental and elegant clothes and which even includes Vesuvius in the background.

If you want to make your own Presepe, these are some of the characters of the tradition which you must be include in your scene. Benino (or Benito) is the young sleeping shepherd, which represents the awareness of the birth of Jesus. The vintner, to represent the wine, the blood of Jesus. The fisherman, always a reference to the Gospel. I due compari, two men at the tavern playing with cards, who represent Carnival and death. Last but not least i Re Magi, the three kings, which according to tradition, arrived in Jerusalem with gifts for the baby Jesus. For those fanatical about Presepe, it is very common to place three small kings in the background at the start of the festive period as they are coming from far away and then every few days they are replaced with bigger and bigger statues until January 5th when they finally arrive at the stable to visit baby Jesus, whose statue is only put in the scene at midnight on Christmas Eve.

Benino (or Benito), the sleeping shepherd.

Details of the precious clothes of some *pastori*.

As I previously mentioned, you can visit the San Martino museum and the Royal Palace Presepe, but the best way to experience the real Presepe Napoletano is to visit ‘Christmas Alley’ San Gregorio Armeno. This is one of the alleys in the old town, famous for all its shops where they sell and make all the statues of the presepe. You can find here any type of statues, from the cheapest (only few euros), to the most expensive (thousands of euros). You can also find elaborate pieces such as waterfalls with real water, mills, ovens, and all you can put in a nativity scene.

The famous Christmas alley, San Gregorio Armeno.

The amazing shops in San Gregorio Armeno.

You don’t need to be religious to appreciate The Neapolitan Presepe. When you walk around San Gregorio Armeno and all the other Presepe in Napoli, I’m sure you will be amazed by this fascinating world of tradition and modernity and by the the skills and the dedication of the artists who have created these wonderful things, generation after generation. These shops are open all year round and every January these presepe makers start to plan and work on the new presepe for the next Christmas.

One of the oldest workshops in San Gregorio Armeno.

You can make your own presepe with some barn/villages.

Barns like a traditional Neapolitan house.

Vegetables & fruits. All hand made and painted.

The incredible expressivity of the pastori in the San Lorenzo church.

Details of the pastori in the San Lorenzo church.

The Girl From Naples Is Back!

May 31, 2022

Hi there! Here I am again! I have just realised that my last blog was dated 2018! .

We all know very well, the last two/three years have been very difficult. We had a global pandemic that has changed not only our lives but also our way of travelling, so keeping up with all the restrictions and rules have made writing a travel blog very challenging, almost impossible and quite frankly, very depressing. So I am sorry for this long absence. I will try to write more often because there is still so much more to know about my wonderful city and region.

I have to say I really do miss travelling. Properly travelling, discovering new places, new countries, new cultures. It’s one of the things I have been missed the most. I have been travelling back and fourth between England and Italy for family reasons and had few outings in Italy without going too far. But I so miss that excited spirit that comes with a new adventure! As I said before our way of travelling has changed and so did we. A lot of people were (and still are) very scared to go to a foreign country, without knowing if they have to quarantine, having tests, etc. Let’s face it. It also has been very expensive and quite stressful to travel. Book the right test for all the family, get the green pass, quarantine in a hotel, ‘no you might not need to quarantine’, etc. How many times did you hear all this?

My very first holiday after two years, one of my favourite destinations: the island of Ischia (August 2021).

Fear also changed everything. I went to Ischia last August and even though it’s still my favourite, it was strangely too quiet, not as buzzy as it used to be. Most of the tourists were italians or local.

Thankfully, the situation is getting better everywhere. Now when you come to Italy, you don’t need to quarantine or show a negative test anymore. Since April 1st, all the travel restrictions have stopped. Hooray!

Even wearing masks indoors and having to show your green pass (the QR code showing you had two jabs and a booster) when travelling or indoors restaurants and bars has stopped.

If you test positive, you still need to quarantine until you have a negative result and must wear a mask.

Hopefully, even those few restrictions will drop by the end of April/beginning of May, so we can all enjoy the summer, the very first summer without stress!

I can’t wait to write more about my region. This summer, to celebrate the end of the pandemic, there are a lot of events and new places opening to visit for the very first time.

A place I definitely will write about is the island of Procida that this year has been nominated as Italian Capital of Culture 2022. Many events on the land and sea have been organised and a taste of the flavours of the Mediterranean cuisine. Definitely a place to visit!!

Finally also in Napoli, tourists are slowly returning and actually, for the summer, many hotels and b&bs are already fully booked!

Of course, please consider that rules to visit museums and art galleries are changing on a daily basis so I will try and keep all information up to date. It is recommended to book ahead of a visit to a museum as now in many places there are limited spaces for visitors. Remember also that from April to October it is free entry in all museums every first Sunday of the month.

It’s so good to know that we can start to think about travelling again and return to our ‘normal’ life.

Napoli is finally open to the world once again! Welcome back! Bentornati!

A Neapolitan very committed to social distancing!

Underground Napoli: The Metro.

June 4, 2018

Napoli is not only a unique city on the surface, but also going into its depths you can discover another fascinating city. Under Napoli, there is a universe that goes from the greek foundations through the roman ruins and up to the modern day Metro. I will write about the complex city of catacombs, tunnels and aqueducts in my next post, but In this one I will talk about the metro underground train system, or metropolitana which is how we call it in Italian. Considered one of the most beautiful underground systems in Europe, the metro has received a lot of recognition all over the world, including pieces in the British Daily Telegraph and America's CNN.

You might say "but it's only a metro station!". Well, it is far from being an ordinary metro station. it's stations are definitely different from any other city in the world. Every station of the Linea 1 is a unique contemporary 'art gallery' with each station displaying contemporary art from some of the the most recognized and celebrated artists of the present day. A labyrinth of tunnels and art galleries with references to the history and culture of the city.

Linea 1 (Line 1), which connects Vomero with the centre of the city, started in the 1970's but was often interrupted due to earthquakes and archealogical finds. In 1995, The Comune di Napoli (Council of Napoli) decided to create spaces of "beauty" in the every-day-neapolitan-life. The new metro stations offered the perfect space in order to make people more engaged to the contemporary artistic scene, so it was called the 'Stazioni dell'arte' (Stations of art). Along the stations of the metro there are more than 200 works of art created specifically for those spaces.

The Municipio station, started in 2003 and still going on for over a decade is definitely the most problematic and challenging of all the stations of the metro. The station is now opened but there are still archealogical works still going on due to the incredible and enormous number of archeological artefacts found in the area. In fact, this area was in roman times the port and during the centuries the sea has reseeded where now the square is. Archeologists have found the remains of a thermal spa, the old fortifications of the city, a tower of the Aragon era, a palace and even five roman ships. Many artefacts are on display inside the station.

The first station opened was Vanvitelli station, at the top of the Vomero hill and one of the busiest stations of the metro. Here artificial and natural light combine with signage in shades of blue, purple, yellow and grey. The corridors that take the people from the streets to the trains are decorated with works of art by Neapolitan artists.

In 2001, more art stations were opened including Museo, Salvator Rosa and Quattro Giornate.

The Museo (Piazza Cavour) station, the stop for the Archeological Museum, was a project by the architect Gae Aulenti. The theme is related to the museum and the artefacts inside: corridors and tunnels in red and glass harking back to Pompeiian villas, a copy of the Hercules at rest, made by the Art Academy nearby. The corridors that lead from the train to the museum are darker with the photographs of roman statues by the artist Mimmo Jodice. At the entrance of the station is a copy of the roman statue 'Laocoön'. In the other corridors on display are artefacts found during the building works of other stations.

Salvator Rosa station is the perfect example of the connection between the metro and its surroundings, where even the buildings outside have been decorated in the style of the station. Here many important Neapolitan and Italian contemporary artists have collaborated, just to name a few; Ernesto Tatafiore, Gianni Pisani, Mimmo Rotella, Mimmo Paladino and Renato Barisani. Mosaics, volcanic stones, red, blue and brightly coloured tiles and golden marble welcome every day, workers, students and tourists. The entrance is through a playground where there are art installations by Alex Mocika, Augusto Perez, Renato Barisani, Lucio Del Pezzo, Nino Longobardi, Riccardo Dalisi, Ugo Marano. From here the entrance to the station is through a huge pyramid in glass that references the guglie, the columns with saints in the city.

Quattro Giornate station is on the eastern part of the Vomero, where the old stadium is. Outside the station are statues in bronze and steel of athletes by Lydia Cottone. The name quattro giornate is related to the historical event of the uprising of the Neapolitans against the Nazi's in September 1943. At the entrance of the station there are statues by Nino Longobardi which remembers this episode.

In 2002, two more stations were opened: Rione Alto station and Piazza Dante.

The Piazza Dante station is another busy station that serves the historical centre. The architect Gae Aulenti created a station which echoed the 17th century square. The result is quite impressive; the architect created many entrances to the station from every side of the square, transparent walls contrast with the volcanic stones of the square created by the architect Vanvitelli. Once inside the station, the artist Joseph Kosuth welcomes people with his neon quotes on the walls by the famous writer Dante, who the square is named after. While going through the escalator there are works by Jannis Kounellis and Michelangelo Pistoletto.

Entrance to the ticket hall with neon quotes by Dante.

Materdei station was opened in 2003, and is another interesting metro station. Outside is an area completely closed to the traffic with a playground, a little park and many art installations. Inside the station are many symbols of Neapolitan culture and characters from folklore of the city. Platforms are decorated with wall drawings by Sol LeWitt and photographic installations.

The Universitá station which serves the university area was opened in 2011 and is a project by the architects Karim Rashid and Alessandro Mendini. Here different materials are used, such as glass, steel and mirrors, with pink, purple and lime green colours. Going down to platform level the space is created with digitally designed tiles and a light box with the words of the florentine poet Dante. Again, past and present, Renaissance and contemporary collide.

One of the most impressive and my personal favourite is, Toledo station designed by the Spanish architect Óscar Tusquets Blanca, opened in 2012. Not a coincidence that the architect is Spanish as from the station it is possible to get to the Spanish Quarters (Quartieri Spagnoli) one of the oldest parts of the city. It is a journey into the depths of the city (50 meters), like into the depths of the sea. The outside of the station is Via Toledo, the main shopping street of Napoli, here is the statue of The Knight of Toledo by the artist William Kentridge.

The internal space of the station is decorated with volcanic stone and big orange circles with the first floor down echoing the ancient town walls of the Aragons. There are mosaics by William Kentridge (Naples Procession) picturing the opening of the first train station in the city in 1906. As you go deeper down into the station you come across another important element of the city, the sea. On the second floor down, the walls become dramatically calm with the colours of blue and white . The more deeper you go the more bluer it gets becoming dark blue like the abyss of the ocean. Looking up you can admire the impressive cone, Crater del luz, crater of light that with a display of LED lights gives the impression of the waves. The artist Robert Wilson created the panels of the corridors to the platforms named "By the sea... you and me", which are series of lenticular photographs of the sea in movement. The artist Achille Cevoli created a panel dedicated to the builders who made this station possible entitled Men at work.

The mosaic 'Naples Procession' by William Kentridge at Toledo station. — The mosaic '*Naples Procession'* by William Kentridge at Toledo station.

Toledo station: from the ground down to the sea.

"By the sea... you and me" by Robert Wilson at Toledo Station.

The newest station is Garibaldi. This is the connection at the main train station and was a project by the French architect Dominique Perrault. The space is all in one structure, full of lights where the escalators and the people look like they are suspended on the mirrored walls. The internal part is decorated with shiny panels in steel. In here are two installations by the artist Michelangelo Pistoletto. In this station the platforms are inspired by the London Underground.

The newest metro line is Linea 6, connecting Municipio, Chiaia, Mergellina and Mostra (Fuorigrotta area).

The Chiaia metro station has been curated by the film director Peter Greenway and for its architecture and design has been given the award for the most beautiful metro station in the world by the Prix Versailles organisation.

Exit to the street from Garibaldi station.

The metro, like in all other cities, will always be extended and improved, connecting more areas with the centre of the city and it will give more chances for artists to collaborate in a unique project. The metropolitana of Napoli has became famous all over the world. Neapolitans and tourists love it and of course, artists enjoy the opportunity to create unique spaces that can inspire the travelling public. It is actually a very romantic notion to think how these works of art connect with so many people, wherever they are going to and wherever they are coming from, on Napoli's unique Metropolitana.

For further info about timetables and stations click here in the section TRAVEL INFO.

Religion and Devotion in Napoli.

March 27, 2017

Easter is just around the corner, and like Christmas, it's a festival that's very important in the Neapolitan life. That's why I thought it would be very interesting to write about religion in Napoli and how deep the connection is between religion and the city. As soon as you step into Napoli, it's everywhere, not only in the churches but also in the streets.

During the centuries, an incredible number of churches (over 448) have been built in the heart of the city, to control the criminality and to comfort and help the people against poverty and the plague. That's why today we have real treasures in every street which makes the city even more special. Many Neapolitans, are still very religious and express this sentiment in many ways as public and private devotion, not only in the churches, but also in their own homes and even in the street.

A modern type of aedicula on on via Girolamo Santacroce.

A modern aedicula in the narrow alleys of the inner city.

If you have a wander around the city, you will certainly bump in to an aedicule on a street, it's like a shrine but different. It's an architectural structure which might contain images, statues, flowes, lights and candles. Its origin is very old and can be traced back to the greeks who used to distribute images of gods along the old city of Neapolis. During the time of King Charles III of Bourbon in the 18th century, many aedicules were built, not only for religious purposes, but also to light up the narrow dark streets during the night due to the candles.

Some aedicules have statues in terracotta with the shapes of naked men and women burning in flames. They are the 'anime pezzentelle', the poor souls' of sinners in Purgatory waiting for absolution, in order to enter Paradise. These statues have the features of real people, made for the relatives from the workshops in San Gregorio Armeno, in order to ask the people to pray for their lost souls. You can find many of these aedicules in the Spanish Quarter, Pizzofalcone and in the inner city.

The collection of ex-voto in Gesú Nuovo Church.

Another expression of devotion is the ex-voto, a votive offering to a saint or divinity in fulfilment of a vow, a gift of devotion or gratitude. For example, people used to and still do, offer a letter and a metal plate with the shape of a body part or organ to a saint, or the Virgin Mary in order to receive healing. Many of these plates can be found in churches around Naples, like at the Gesu' Nuovo in the centro storico.

Ex-voto at the back of the glass case, offered to St. Francis Xaverio in the Gesú Nuovo Church.

Guglia dell'Immacolata in piazza del Gesú.

The guglia is some of the most interesting religious structure in Napoli. It is a pinnacle or obelisk with saints, putti and angels raised to the sky. There are quite a few in the city. The most important is the Guglia dell'Immacoltata (Obelisk of the Immaculate Mary). Situated in piazza del Gesu' in the heart of the old city, it was commissioned by the Jesuits in 1743 and funded by donations. This theatrical obelisk dominates the square with its rich decorations of statues, reliefs and medallions. It was designed by the architect Giuseppe Genuino and decorated by Matteo Bottigliero and Francesco Pagano in the rococo style. At the top is the gilded copper statue of Mary. Still today, on the 8th of December every year, the day of the celebration of the Immaculate, the mayor and the cardinal place a ladder against the monument and climb up to place a crown of flowers on the head of the madonna.

The second most important and ancient guglia is the Guglia di San Gennaro, dedicated to the patron saint of Naples Saint Gennaro. It is situated in piazza Sisto Riario Sforza, near The Pio Monte della Misericordia (the church with Caravaggio's painting seven acts of Mercy, see my blog) and not far from the Duomo, where the celebrations of the saint still take place. This guglia was made by Cosimo Fanzago, one of the most important Neapolitan sculptors, a few years after the eruption of Vesuvius in 1631. The Neapolitans believed (and still do now) that Saint Gennaro protected the city from the eruption. A group known as The Delegation of the Treasure of San Gennaro decided to raise a statue to the saint. The guglia is a celebration of the baroque style. The base is decorated with volutes and sirens and at the top stands a bronze statue of San Gennaro, looking out watchful over his city.

San Gennaro Guglia in Sisto Riario Sforza.

The third guglia is the obelisk in piazza San Domenico, built in 1656 by the Neapolitans for the Dominican order to prevent the plague. For the importance of the work was called initially Cosimo Fanzago, whom was already working at the San Gennaro's guglia, and completed by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro in 1736.

San Domenico guglia in piazza San Domenico.

It is so strong in our culture that even today we Neapolitans create new symbols of devotion. It is not a scandal to find in the old town the aedicule dedicated to Diego Maradona, the Argentinian footballer who played for Napoli in the 80s. Yes, why not?. For many Neapolitans he is the greatest football player they ever had, who made Napoli title winners. He is a little bit like Saint Gennaro who protected the city from the volcano, isn't he?

The aedicule dedicated to the football player Maradona, in the centro storico.

Very popular is jewellery inspired by the ex-voto. The Neapolitan artist Daria Cadalt is the designer of the La Petitpoup Accessories, a handmade collection of necklaces, made out of gypsum with the shapes of small body parts, arms and hands. If you are interested in Daria's work, have a look at her Facebook page or her youtube channel, La Petitpoup Accessories.

Jewellery inspired by the ex-voto culture, La Petitpoup Assessorise.

'A proper homage from a nation... to these fine arts that we have inherited and whose splendor gives prestige to Italy and to modern Europe'. — **'A proper homage from a nation... to these fine arts that we have inherited and whose splendor gives prestige to Italy and to modern Europe'.**

National Archeological Museum.

February 24, 2017

The National Archeological Museum is one of the most important museums of classical archeology in the world and it is absolutely a MUST SEE when you are in Napoli.

The building was originally constructed as a calvary barracks and then was used to house a university, before it was finally turned into a museum. Over the centuries it has had many alterations for the purpose of housing its immense collection.

In the mid 18th Century, King Charles of Bourbon made available to the public his collection of antiquities inherited from his mother, 'the Farnese collection', which consisted of many amazing statues from Roman and Greek Antiquity. The king himself was a collector of fine archeological treasures, especially from the nearby buried cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. He promoted the excavations of the two cities which were covered up by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD. From these, he gained a large number of marble and bronze sculptures, inscriptions, mosaics, pottery, jewellery, wall paintings, and Roman knick-knacks of every kind. This is the collection we still admire today.

The model of Pompeii on the second floor, made in 1879.

A papyrus unrolled from the Villa dei Papyrus.

Nowadays, the museum is organised on four floors. I personally would suggest that you start from the top floor, which has the stunning collection of frescoes from Pompeii and Herculaneum, the hall of the Temple of Isis in Pompeii, and a model of the city of Pompeii before being destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius.

On the same floor in the western halls there are collections from the cities of Ancient Greece and also Etruscan and Roman cities, such as Pozzuoli, Capua, Baia, Miseno and Capri.

In the others halls there is the history of Naples and the magnificent collection of the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum. Discovered in 1750, this was a typical private villa. Very impressive is the high number and fine quality of the statues found in the villa, intense portraits of ordinary people, athletes, dancers, philosophers and gods. I always find it incredible how detailed these statues are, their faces, their hands, and their hair. They still seem to be alive to me.

Also housed here is the reason of the villa's name, the spectacular collection of more than 1000 papyrus rolls from the villa's library which survived the eruption, despite the fragile material of the scrolls and the high temperature of the lava. When first discovered many people through curiosity tried to unroll them in order to read them, but all were damaged. Only thanks to the invention of a machine in 1754 was it possible to open the rolls and read many of the most important texts of Greek literature, which otherwise would of been lost.

One of the statues of a dancer from the Villa dei Papiri.

Philosophers and athletes from the Villa dei Papiri.

The intense and dramatic bust of Seneca.

Pan and the goat from The Villa dei Papiri.

Continuing the journey down to the first floor is the reconstruction of the Casa del Fauno (house of the Faun) from Pompeii, which has the original pavements, columns, mosaics (including the famous Mosaic of Alexander) and all the original artefacts from the villa. It is amazing that most of the features of the house still have all their splendid and vivid colours.

From these rooms it is possible to enter into the Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Cabinet). This is the collection of erotic artefacts and mosaics from Pompeii as well as a reconstruction of a typical brothel. It is very interesting to see the Roman's take on sexuality.

The original statue of the Faun from Pompeii, on the first floor.

The mosaic pavement of Alexander, from the House of the Faun in Pompeii.

Amazing colourful features from the House of the Faun.

On the ground floor, where the entrance to the museum is, you can visit the Giardino delle Camelie (Garden of Camellias) and the Giardino delle Fontane (Garden of Fountains). Here is also the famous Farnese collection, which includes the gallery of Roman Emperors, Philosophers and mythological figures, like the giant Hercules at rest and the monumental Farnese Bull (both dated around the end 2nd/early 3rd century AD and discovered around 1545-46 in the Caracalla baths). Continuing on your journey you will then come across the Gem rooms.

The giant Hercules at rest at the ground floor. — The giant *Hercules at rest* at the ground floor.

Detail of the Hercules at rest. — Detail of the *Hercules at rest*.

The Farnese collection on the ground floor.

The Farnese Bull, made from a single block of marble. — The *Farnese Bull*, made from a single block of marble.

To finish your visit, you will go down to the basement where you will find the Egyptian and Epigraphs collection. To know more about it, check out my blog Egypt in Napoli.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale

Piazza Museo 19 - 80137 Napoli.

Tel: +39 06 39967 050

Tickets: € 12 / Concessions € 6 / Evening entry € 2 - Promotions are applied to Trenitalia and Frecciarossa customers, see the website.

Free entry every first Sunday of the month.

Opening hours: 09.00 - 19.30. Closed Tuesdays.

Closed December 25th and January 1st.

Caravaggio in Napoli.

November 1, 2016

When you look at Caravaggio's paintings you are also looking at Napoli. It is in the chiaroscuro, the contrast between the dramatic darkness and light, in the visceral depiction of bodies, dirty hands, expressive faces which are taken directly from the poor streets of Napoli.

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1571-1610) visited Napoli twice, in 1606 on the run from a murder charge in Rome and in 1610, just before his death on the way back to Rome. Napoli was a part of the Spanish Empire at that time and the city was a vibrant cultural and economic centre due to its important port. Many artists from all over Europe were attracted to the city by the commissions for the many churches and cathedrals.

In Napoli Caravaggio painted The Madonna of the Rosary (now at the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna), The Flagellation of Christ (now at the Museo di Capodimonte, Napoli) and the stunning Seven Works of Mercy for the high altar of the Church of Pio Monte della Misericordia, which still stands today, together with the painting in its original position. This is definitely one of my favourite Caravaggio paintings. The architecture of the church seems to be constructed around the painting in a silent devotion to the artist. Caravaggio gave to Napoli one of his most breathtaking masterpieces. The painting is an image of the city where he tried to find comfort in a desperate time of his life.

Pio Monte della Misericordia was an institution founded by a group of noblemen dedicated exclusively to acts of human charity. The word misericordia means mercy. Caravaggio, portrayed in the painting the seven acts of physical mercy, which are; to bury the dead, visit the imprisoned, feed the hungry, shelter the homeless, clothe the naked, visit the sick and refresh the thirsty.

The scene is a revolutionary vision. All the acts are taking place in a mysterious dark neapolitan vicolo (alley) in the lower part of the painting, whilst in the top part are two floating angels supporting the Madonna of Mercy with Child.

Caravaggio was very successful and famous in Napoli, however after a few months he decided to leave the city and ended up in Malta with the Knights of St John and then Sicily.

He finally returned to Napoli in 1610 on the way to Rome, in order to receive forgiveness from the Pope for his misdeeds. This is when he painted The Denial of Saint Peter, (now at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York) and John the Baptist (now in Villa Borghese, Rome) and his last masterpiece Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, which has recently been attributed to him. This is the last dramatic painting of a unique artist. From the dark background, figures emerge in a silent procession of human bodies, the Saint and villains all together. Even Caravaggio himself participates in the scene, just behind Saint Ursula's head. The flesh is so pale in contrast with the black and the red of the clothes.

For sure, Caravaggio understood Napoli and the neapolitans like no other painter and after him the artistic life in Napoli would never be the same. He left behind a very prolific Caravaggesque movement with Neapolitan artists who kept alive his style, painting subjects that Caravaggio himself made popular. Artists like Mattia Preti, Salvator Rosa, Joseph de Ribera and Battistello Caracciolo, who was considered to be one of his truest followers.

Running until 15th January 2017 at London's National Gallery is the exhibition Beyond Caravaggio. It's worth visiting as there are many references to Napoli and Neapolitan artists which will make you understand better his his life and his connection with Napoli.

Where to see Caravaggio in Napoli:

Pio Monte della Misericordia, via dei Tribunali, 253 - 80139 Napoli. Tel. +39 081 44 69 44 / Tickets: €7 / Reduced: €5

Opening hours: Mon - Sat, 09.00 - 18.00 / Sun 09.00 - 14.30

Museum of Capodimonte, via Miano, 2 - 80131 Napoli. Tel. +39 081 74 99 154 / Email. mu-cap@beniculturali.it / Tickets: €8 / Reduced: €4

Opening hours: Every day except Wednesdays, 08.30 - 19.30

Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano, via Toledo, 185 - 80132 Napoli. Tel. +39 800 454 229 / Email. info@palazzozevallos.com / Tickets: €5 / Reduced €3

Opening hours: Mon closed, Tue - Fri 10.00 - 18.00 / Sat - Sun 10.00 - 20.00